Travel Diary 2024: Second Visit to Kyushu - 9-Day Free Trip via Busan → Hakata Cruise Entry
Entering Japan's Hakata from Busan via the New Camellia cruise, exploring Yufuin, Oita, Fukuoka, Shimonoseki, Shimanami, and Sasebo; a total of 11 days.
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[Travel Diary] 2024: Second Visit to Kyushu - 9-Day Free Trip via Busan → Hakata Cruise Entry
I took the New Camellia cruise from Busan, South Korea, to Hakata, Japan, and explored Yufuin, Oita, Fukuoka, Shimonoseki, Shimanami, and Sasebo over a total of 11 days.
Background
Taking advantage of a brief break between jobs, I decided to visit Japan again. I left my previous job on May 30, departed on June 3, returned on June 13, and started my new job on June 24. The timing worked out perfectly, allowing me to take a longer trip (a total of 11 days). This time, I traveled solo but teamed up with James Lin (a former Binance Android Developer; feel free to reach out to him if you have job opportunities). This is my second visit to Kyushu; I visited Fukuoka, Kumamoto, and Nagasaki during my first trip in September last year. This time, I aimed to cover places I missed during my previous visit, so my itinerary differed from James’s, and we went our separate ways.
Here are the places I visited last time that I may not revisit this time. If you’re interested in learning more about Kyushu, please refer to my previous travel diary, “2023 Kyushu 10-Day Solo Trip”:
- Fukuoka: Mojiko, Kokura Castle, Kushida Shrine, Sumiyoshi Shrine, Nakasu Yatai, Fukuoka Tower, PayPay Dome, shopping in Tenjin, Canal City Hakata, Lalaport, Yanagawa River Cruise, Dazaifu
- Nagasaki: Chinatown, Glover Garden, Inasa Mountain Night View, Atomic Bomb Museum, Peace Park
- Kumamoto: Kumamoto Castle, Aso Nakadake, Aso Shrine, Suizenji Jojuen, Tsuruya Department Store, Kamitori Shopping Street, Shimotori Shopping Street, Kato Shrine, Sakura Town Department Store, Kumamon Square (Department Head’s Office)
For more details, please refer to “2023 Kyushu 10-Day Solo Trip”.
Lessons Learned from This Trip
As always, I’ll summarize the lessons learned from this trip at the beginning: “Traveling independently means constantly paying tuition (in time or money) to learn; the more experience you gain, the fewer pitfalls you encounter.”
- At small JR stations without electronic boards, check the platform bulletin board for train schedules to confirm which platform the train will arrive at. ⚠️
- At some JR stations without station masters, you need to exit from the first car (the conductor also serves as the station master, similar to getting off a bus).
- JR limited express and regular tickets are separate; after buying a regular ticket, you need to purchase an additional limited express ticket to ride the limited express. If you board without the proper ticket, you will be asked to pay the difference. (With a JR Pass, you don’t have to worry about this; you can board without thinking.)
- JR limited express trains almost always have ticket checks; if you’re in a non-reserved seat, the conductor will ask where you’re going for record-keeping.
- If you have an online reservation for the JR Pass (which requires credit card payment for the reservation fee), you will need to show the same credit card when exchanging for the JR Pass, so make sure to bring that card to Japan. ⚠️
- If you book the New Camellia too late, you may only get an economy shared room (8-11 people, mixed gender, only a Japanese-style public bath, lights out at 11 PM).
- If you book the Yufuin no Mori too late, there may be no seats available, and you’ll have to take the regular Yufu JR train.
- Reservations for boat rides in Takachiho Gorge need to be made in advance.
- There are two Shinkansen trains that the JR Pass does not cover: “Nozomi” and “Mizuho,” which require separate tickets.
- Sometimes, the ticket gates for the Shinkansen entering and exiting Hakata Station can be tricky; you may need to go through the manual gate (since you can’t take the aforementioned two trains, the station staff will let you through once they confirm you’re not boarding those trains).
- Always double-check your reservations; I encountered an issue with the gender on my New Camellia reservation, and I quickly contacted customer service for assistance. ⚠️ (Later, I realized that it probably wouldn’t matter since it was a mixed-gender room, but it was still quite a shock.)
- Buses in Kyushu may not run on time, and Google Maps directions may not always be accurate.
- Check and reserve luggage storage options in Japan (but not all locations are listed; many places that offer storage may not appear).
- You need a power adapter for Korea.
- Korean won can only be exchanged at the counter.
- In Korea, you can just buy a T-money transportation card without needing a Wowpass.
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Preparations
Fun
This trip mainly focused on taking the New Camellia cruise from Busan, Korea, to Fukuoka (Hakata) and exploring Yufuin (Yufuin), Beppu in Oita, and Takachiho in Miyazaki Prefecture.
My pre-trip plan was as follows (I finalized it the day before departure, the actual order may not follow the plan, and I later skipped South Aso because it was too far):
- June 3: Arrive in Busan - Gimhae Airport around 19:00, reach Busan Station by 20:00, check into the hotel, and find food nearby.
- June 4: Haedong Yonggungsa Temple, Haeundae, and then depart Korea in the evening, boarding the New Camellia cruise.
- June 5: Arrive in Fukuoka, head to Karatsu to visit Nanokama, and then go to Yutaka Inari Shrine and the large torii gate in the sea, returning via Lalaport. Actual: Only visited Yutaka Inari Shrine.
- June 6: Take the JR train to Yufuin in the morning, then head to Oita in the afternoon.
- June 7: Oita, Beppu hell tour.
- June 8: Mojiko, Shimonoseki, and Karato Market. Actual: Visited Karatsu Castle instead.
- June 9: South Aso, Shirakawa Water Source, Kamishikimi Kumanoza Shrine. Actual: Changed to Sasebo (Ninety-Nine Islands Cruise) and Takeo Onsen.
- June 10: Cover the itinerary missed on June 7, visit the large torii gate in the sea, Yutaka Inari Shrine, and either Lalaport or shopping. Actual: Went to Sakurai Futamigaura Meoto Iwa, Nanzoin, and a pilgrimage in Hakata.
- June 11: KKDAY Takachiho Day Tour, visiting Takachiho Shrine, Takachiho Gorge, Amano Iwato Shrine, and Amano Iwato Shrine.
- June 12: Sasebo, Ninety-Nine Islands, Huis Ten Bosch or baseball. Actual: Went shopping in Hakata, shopping in Tenjin, and watched baseball at PayPay Dome.
- June 13: Shopping in Fukuoka city, then take the 21:00 flight back to Taiwan. Actual: Spent more time at Lalaport.
For internet access, I bought a DJB plan again, which included 2GB for 2 days in Korea and unlimited data for 9 days in Japan, totaling NT$1,250.
Traveling to Takachiho was extremely difficult from Fukuoka, so I directly signed up for the KKDAY Takachiho Day Tour, which included transportation, lunch, and a Chinese-speaking guide, costing NT$2,272 per person.
Flights
- Outbound: China Airlines, Taipei Taoyuan TPE 15:55 → Busan Gimhae International Airport PUS 18:55
- Return: China Airlines, Fukuoka Airport FUK 21:00 → Taipei Taoyuan TPE 22:25
- Round trip includes checked baggage (23 kg per piece).
Price: NT$10,480
🛳️ Cruise New Camellia
- Departure: Check-in at Busan Port International Shipping Terminal at 18:30
- Arrival: 07:30 at Hakata Port International Shipping Terminal
Price: Economy/2nd Class: Shared Cabin
NT$1,450 per person
🚅 JR Pass North Kyushu Rail Pass (5 Days)
Price: NT$3,042
During this trip in Kyushu, I used the JR Pass to take limited express trains whenever possible. Except for Yufuin, which required special reservations, I mostly sat in non-reserved seat cars (there weren’t many people, and there were always seats available).
I couldn’t reserve a seat on the Yufuin no Mori train from Hakata to Yufuin, so I could only book a seat on the regular Yufu 1 train.
Please note that the Yufuin no Mori and the regular train (Yufu X) are different, so be careful when making reservations to ensure you are booking the Yufuin no Mori.
Reservation Process:
You must purchase the JR Pass before making a reservation, as the travel agency options for reservations are limited to KLOOK. I was concerned that other agencies might not be able to make reservations, so I bought my JR Pass from KLOOK.
1. Go to the JR Pass reservation homepage:
Scroll down to find “Rail Pass Purchase” → “Inquiry/Change/Refund.”
2. Go to the JR Pass reservation page :
Select “Register.”
Read and agree to the terms, then click “Next.”
Enter the email you want to register and click “Register.”
Check your email for a message, note the “temporary password,” and click the continue link.
- Select the travel agency name: KLOOK
- If you have an MCO issued by a different travel agency, please do not make any selections.
- KRP reservation number/MCO number
Go to KLOOK to view your JR Pass voucher and copy the voucher number.
- Name
Enter the name on your JR Pass order. If the voucher is issued by KLOOK, enter the first name + last name. For example, if my voucher says LI ZXXX CXXX
, I would enter ZXXX CXXX LI
here.
- Please enter the name as registered when purchasing the JR Kyushu Rail Pass Online Booking or as marked on the voucher issued by the travel agency (eMCO, MCO).
- If you are using a voucher issued by KLOOK, please enter your name in the order of “first name” and “last name.”
- Enter the temporary password from the email.
5.6. Enter the password you want to set for login.
Once you complete the password setup, you can check and reserve train seats during the available reservation times ( Japan time 05:30~23:00). Reservations cannot be made outside of these hours.
- Departure date
- Departure station: Hakata
- Arrival station: Yufuin
The Yufuin no Mori was fully booked, so I could only reserve a seat on the regular train Yufu 1, with the earliest departure at 07:43 and arrival at 10:03.
- Continue to the next page to select seat preferences, location, and car.
Enter the start date for using the rail pass.
Please enter your credit card information to pay for the reservation fee (1,000 yen per adult / 500 yen per child).
The above is the buyer’s credit card. You must bring and present the credit card used for payment when picking up tickets at the counter.
The above is the buyer’s credit card. You must bring and present the credit card used for payment when picking up tickets at the counter.
The above is the buyer’s credit card. You must bring and present the credit card used for payment when picking up tickets at the counter.
⚠️ So please make sure to bring that credit card when picking up your tickets ⚠️
Checkout complete, reservation confirmed!
Stay (10 nights, including 1 night on a cruise)
[6/3] Toyoko Inn Busan Station No. 1 (1 night)
Great location right outside Busan Station, just a short walk to the Busan Port International Shipping Terminal, making it convenient to get around.
Price: NT$1,940 for a twin room for two people.[6/4] New Camellia Ferry (1 night)
Price: NT$1,450 per person.[6/5] Toyoko Inn Hakata-guchi Station Front (1 night)
About a 10-minute walk from Hakata Station.
Price: NT$2,911 for a twin room for two people.[6/6, 6/7] Toyoko Inn Oita Station Front (2 nights)
About a 10-minute walk from Oita Station.
Price: NT$4,389 for a twin room for two people.[6/8, 6/9] APA Hotel Fukuoka-Watanabedori EXCELLENT (福岡渡辺通駅前) (2 nights)
About a 5-minute walk from Watanabe-dori Station.
Price: NT$9,311 for a twin room for two people.[6/10, 6/11, 6/12] Toyoko Inn Fukuoka Tenjin (3 nights)
About a 10-minute walk from Tenjin Minami Station.
Price: NT$7,131 for a twin room for two people.
Total: NT$14,291, averaging NT$1,400 per night. Finally managed to keep it under NT$1,500 per night this time, thanks to Toyoko Inn!
Last time I stayed at Toyoko Inn in Hiroshima, I signed up for a membership. Just let the front desk know you want to sign up during check-in, fill out a simple form, and pay the one-time membership fee of 1,500 yen. They take your photo on-site and issue your card right away, so you can start using it immediately.
In Korea, use Naver Map to plan your itinerary and routes in advance for easy navigation:
- I find it more user-friendly than Google Maps for travel!
- You can log in directly using Line.
Go!
Visit Japan has now combined the entry and customs processes into one QR code.
Day 1 Departure
As with previous trips abroad, I first went to the A1 counter at Taipei Main Station to check in early, so I could go directly to the airport for departure. ( For flights eligible for early check-in, please refer to the official website.)
I initially planned to take the orange line to Sanchong for the transfer, but the other early check-in station for the airport MRT is at A3 New Taipei Industrial Park Station, not Sanchong Station, and there are no direct trains from Sanchong Station, so I decided to go to Taipei Main Station instead.
- As before, I put an Airtag in my suitcase for easy tracking.
Taoyuan Airport TPE Terminal 1
This time, China Airlines is flying to Busan from Terminal 1.
At the airport, I first looked for a counter to exchange for Korean won. Most foreign exchange ATMs do not provide Korean won, only Japanese yen; the airport exchange rate is poor and charges a NT$100 handling fee, so if you have time, it’s better to exchange at a bank in advance.
13:00 Departure
I completed the departure procedures around 13:00.
After exiting Terminal 1, I grabbed some Tasty Fried Chicken for lunch.
Previously, the observation lounge was closed, but this time it was open, so I went up to check it out. It turned out to be quite small.
Since it was still early, I decided to relax in the free VIP lounge at Terminal 1, which was not crowded at that time.
The Tasty Fried Chicken was marinated and very tasty, but unfortunately, this airport location does not serve the signature Gua Gua Bun; also, I noticed that all the charging stations have been removed, leaving only the shells, so they can’t be used.
The lounge has a combined bathroom and toilet, with a limited number of facilities (about five), but they are very clean and well-maintained by the cleaning staff.
15:20 Boarding Begins
Boarding started around 15:20.
At Terminal 1, you need to take a shuttle bus to the boarding gate. There weren’t many people on this flight to Busan! As shown in the picture, there were probably fewer than 30 passengers.
This China Airlines flight to Busan is on a Boeing 737-800, which is a medium-sized aircraft without entertainment screens. Bye Taiwan!
I had to rely on in-flight Wi-Fi to access entertainment content, and there were quite a few movies available! There was even “The Fast and the Furious”! The in-flight meal was three-cup chicken noodles (which were not very good), and I was surprised to find a collaboration snack featuring the short-tailed quokka from China Airlines x Wutong x Dinotaeng Quokka.
I filled out the immigration card, customs card, and the quarantine QR code can be applied for in advance; if you don’t apply in advance, you’ll need to fill out an additional quarantine card.
19:05 Arrival at Gimhae International Airport PUS in Busan, Korea
The daytime temperature in Korea is about 20–25 degrees Celsius, and it may drop below 20 degrees at night; it feels a bit like autumn in Taiwan.
19:20 Exiting the Airport
I exited the airport around 19:20 after going through immigration and collecting my luggage.
At that time, I misunderstood the relationship between wowpass and tmoney, thinking they were just two combined cards; my understanding was that wowpass is a cash card for cash exchange and shopping, while tmoney is a transportation card, and wowpass would include tmoney; in reality, you only need to buy tmoney, not wowpass. I didn’t realize this at the time and kept looking for wowpass instead of tmoney. There are no wowpass machines at Gimhae International Airport, so I had to buy a ticket with cash to get to Busan.
From Gimhae Airport to Busan Station, the subway requires three transfers; there weren’t many people on the trains, so I wasn’t worried about crowding.
- If you have a transportation card, you can swipe it directly to enter.
- The first segment is on the purple line from Gimhae Airport Station to Sasang Station.
- Follow the floor signs to the platform.
- After getting off at Sasang Station on the purple line, follow the signs to transfer to the green line.
- Take Line 2 on the green line to Seomyeon Station.
- Buy a ticket for the second segment to Seomyeon Station.
- After getting off at Seomyeon Station on the green line, head towards the orange line platform.
- Take Line 1 on the orange line to Busan Station.
Transferring from the green line to the orange line does not require exiting the platform. I wasn’t sure if I could buy a ticket to Busan Station while on the green line, so I didn’t pay close attention; therefore, when I got to Busan Station, I couldn’t exit and had to get a manual ticket to leave.
20:20 Arrival at Busan Station
Upon exiting, I found Toyoko Inn Busan Station No. 1.
I dropped off my luggage and went out to find something to eat.
- Fortunately, the hotel has 100V Taiwan outlets/USB ports, so I didn’t need a power adapter.
Since it was late, most of the nearby barbecue places were closed; I randomly found a pork soup rice restaurant to solve my hunger ( The Doi Jongga Dwaejigukbap Busan Stn. ).
- The pork soup rice had a strong pork flavor, the broth was oily but not too rich, and it was okay to eat with rice.
- The grilled pork neck was good with lettuce and kimchi, but eating too much can be quite greasy.
- Two bowls of soup rice and one plate of grilled pork neck cost a total of 46,000 won.
Wowpass / Tmoney
There was a wowpass machine in the hotel lobby. I scanned my passport and followed the instructions to complete the process, and the machine dispensed the wowpass + tmoney combined card.
- The upper part is Wowpass.
- The chip is Wowpass.
- Wowpass and Tmoney are separate.
- You can recharge Wowpass through the Wowpass machine, directly with New Taiwan Dollars, online with a credit card, for currency exchange, or cash withdrawal (with a handling fee).
- Wowpass has an expiration date, and if not used for too long, the balance may disappear.
- The chip part can be used for card payments at merchants.
- Tmoney can be recharged at convenience stores or subway recharge machines.
- Currently, you cannot deposit money from Wowpass into Tmoney (the official statement says this will be possible in the future).
- Wowpass requires an initial deposit of 5,000 won, but it seems this step can be skipped, which means you can get the card for free?
- The lower part is Tmoney, so remember to use the lower part when taking the subway or bus; I initially tried to use the whole card and kept failing, as it seemed to read the Wowpass instead.
- After receiving the physical card, you can bind it in the Wowpass App.
- The Wowpass App allows you to check your Wowpass balance.
- The Tmoney balance can only be checked by swiping the card (how unique!).
- As shown in the image, Wowpass balance is 454 KRW / Tmoney balance is 2,500 KRW.
If you want to know the details of Tmoney recharges and deductions, you need to install the App (BucaCheck):
- It also reads the content by swiping the card.
If you find this travelogue helpful, you can enter my invitation code when registering for Wowpass:
373TBH87
After finishing dinner, we went to GS25 to buy some Korean beer and snacks. Kelly enjoyed the beer, and the snack on the right looked like spicy strips but wasn’t as salty or spicy—perfect for pairing with drinks. The crab-flavored crackers were just okay.
Resting, wrapping up a busy Day 1.
Day 2: Haedong Yonggungsa Temple, Haeundae, and boarding the New Shimonoseki Ferry
Haedong Yonggungsa Temple
We took bus 1001
from Busan Station to Haedong Yonggungsa Temple early in the morning; there are frequent buses and not many people.
The journey takes about an hour and a half. The buses in Korea are similar to those in Taiwan, and the drivers tend to drive quite fast. Normally, passengers enter from the front and exit from the back, but some people also enter from the back and exit from the front.
The drop-off point is right across from Skyline Luge Busan.
After getting off, we walked forward and soon saw the signs for Haedong Yonggungsa Temple. A right turn and a short uphill walk will get you there; the map says it takes 15 minutes, but since it’s uphill, it actually takes about 30 minutes. If you don’t want to walk, you can also take a taxi.
You will first pass through a shopping street, and there are also places like a container market nearby where you can take a break and grab a bite. Upon entering, you can see a row of 12 zodiac animal representations, with the dog representing the Year of the Dog.
Continuing forward, you will see the entrance gate to Haedong Yonggungsa Temple, which is very colorful and distinctive.
Be careful as you walk down the stairs to the main temple area.
You can first head to the viewing platform on the left to get a panoramic view of the entire temple.
Entering the main hall, you can buy a tile to write your wishes on (10,000 KRW).
Haeundae
From the bus stop outside Haedong Yonggungsa Temple, we took bus 1001
back to Haeundae (about 1 hour).
The sun was shining brightly that day, and there was a sand sculpture exhibition on the beach.
Be careful going down the stairs; I witnessed a Korean uncle miss a step and fall into a sand pile (thankfully, it was just sand).
ㄏ
Haeundae LCT, a landmark building in Busan.
HAEUNDAE, under a clear blue sky.
Haeundae Beach has lifeguards, marked swimming areas, and water activities available.
For lunch, we had Korean BBQ at Baegnyeon Sikdang near Haeundae, where the staff cooked for us. We ordered a portion of Korean beef ribeye and pork neck, both delicious, along with a stone pot rice that had a strong burnt rice aroma. We shared the meal between the two of us.
We also ordered some Korean beer and soju to enjoy (I forgot to try the soju beer mix).
- The price was 13.0, which means 13 * 1000 = 13,000 KRW.
- There were also a bunch of Korean side dishes, including pickled vegetables, kimchi, and raw marinated crab (which I was too scared to try because it smelled too fishy).
- The staff were friendly and spoke decent English.
Next to the restaurant is the Haeundae Traditional Market, mainly selling local seafood. We bought an ice cream and walked around, then went to another shop selling ice cream croissants and had a tea-flavored ice cream croissant (crispy on the outside, soft on the inside, delicious!).
After eating, I forgot that Haeundae also has a monorail and that the Haeundae LCT can actually be visited (I didn’t do thorough research on Busan before the trip). By around 14:00, we took bus 1001
back to Busan Station, thinking we would figure out where to go next or just explore Busan Station.
We returned to Busan Station around 15:00, and with plenty of time before the cruise check-in at 18:30, we realized there wasn’t much to do around Busan Station (it seems there are no department stores or shopping streets or attractions). I was worried that going to Gamcheon Culture Village would be too far, but I found out that a few stops down from Busan Station, you can go to Busan Tower, which is surrounded by department stores and shopping streets.
Originally, I planned to go to Busan Tower, but I accidentally got off at the wrong subway station and ended up walking a long way, so I gave up and returned.
_[KKday Busan Yongdusan Park Busan Tower Observation Deck e-ticket](https://www.kkday.com/zh-tw/product/19378?cid=19365&ud1=cb65fd5ab770){:target=”blank”}.
I bought some famous Korean banana milk to drink.
17:00 Departing for Busan Port International Shipping Terminal
Around 5 PM, I wandered around near Busan Station before heading to the hotel to pick up my luggage and make my way to the Busan Port International Shipping Terminal.
Entering the Busan Station lobby (2nd floor), I found Exit 10, and walked along the sky bridge to reach the Busan Port International Shipping Terminal (about a 15-minute walk).
Do not walk on the ground level; there are many large vehicles, which is very dangerous.
The Busan Port Bridge during the day.
The Busan Port International Shipping Terminal (dock) was quite empty, with not many people, as there are only a few sailings each day; besides the route to Fukuoka, there are ferries to Shimonoseki, Tsushima, Osaka, Kumamoto, and more.
We went up to the 3rd floor for departure, first heading to New Camellia to exchange our ferry tickets (passport required).
Around 17:30, we started waiting to board; the waiting area was quite spacious. You can actually walk around and buy food to take on the ship.
Things to note:
- You cannot use the electronic gate at Hakata Port, so please make sure to fill out the immigration card and customs declaration card ⚠️
- You can bring food and water, and you don’t need to check your luggage, as you can take it on board with you.
- Only handheld drinks are not allowed.
- The entire departure process is very quick; security checks are quite casual (everything goes through X-ray).
Departure opens at 18:30.
After clearing customs, the waiting area is not very large, with a few duty-free shops and cafes (only one sells food), so I bought a tuna sandwich to fill my stomach.
I also bought some famous Korean Toms Gilim almond snacks (classic honey flavor, strawberry chocolate-covered, tiramisu flavor) as souvenirs.
After clearing customs, you can line up with your luggage; everyone else is also lined up with their suitcases, ready to board.
Koreans make up about 90% of the passengers.
You can look out the window at Busan Port, and as the time approaches, everyone returns to their luggage to prepare for boarding.
It takes about 15–20 minutes to walk and wait from the dock to the ship.
New Shimonoseki Ferry
Room 430; after boarding, we went up to room 430 on the 4th floor.
The space is quite small, accommodating a maximum of 11 people. This time, we had a family of three, two couples (four people), and my friend and I (two people), so it wasn’t fully booked. It seems they arrange people from the same language or country together (besides one couple from Hong Kong, the rest were all Taiwanese).
- Each person’s space is small, with hard pillows, simple mattresses, new sheets, and blankets.
- It was first come, first served, and we happened to get a corner spot, which was slightly larger.
- There are two outlets (no adapter needed) for charging.
After settling in our luggage around 20:00, the ship is scheduled to depart around 10:30.
The 3rd floor has a restaurant and a small shop with vending machines (all use Japanese yen), selling slippers, toiletries, and sanitary products. The restaurant does not serve food; you can only buy instant noodles or microwaveable food from the shop. Therefore, it’s recommended to bring food from Busan.
Note: Meat products cannot be brought into Japan; any leftovers must be discarded. ⚠️
Fortunately, I had a sandwich before boarding, so I wasn’t very hungry and just bought some instant noodles to solve my meal.
Note: Hot water is not available at the restaurant; there is only a cold water dispenser there. For hot water, you need to go to the galley near the back of the ship; I searched for a long time before finding it.
Also, be careful when operating the hot water dispenser; first, turn on the switch, and it won’t dispense water immediately; you have to wait a bit. Once it starts, be careful when using it, and make sure to turn it off tightly after use to avoid scalding the next person.
After eating, I went out on deck for a stroll (you can come and go freely, but be careful of slippery surfaces).
Around 21:00, another ferry to Shimonoseki (PUKWAN FERRY) departed first.
Looking back at the night view of Busan Port.
Around 22:30, the ship began to leave Busan Port, passing under the Busan Port Bridge, and the night view of the bridge was stunning (it gets cold, so dress warmly).
Economy Cabin
The economy cabin lights go out at 11 PM, so after watching the departure, you can head back and lie down.
- Only the first-class rooms have private bathrooms; the others are shared.
- The bathroom is a Japanese public bath, so you need to be completely naked. There are small partitions for washing; if you’re too shy to go, you might end up not showering at all.
- Overall, the facilities are quite old but kept clean.
- There’s an entertainment room and KTV.
- The public areas remain lit.
- The internet is available until around 11 PM after departure (it’s said that there might be a short stretch without internet).
- As you approach Tsushima Island, you’ll enter Japanese territory and need to switch to a Japanese SIM card.
- The ship will sway slightly while in motion, so if you’re prone to seasickness, you might want to take some medication.
Good night, Busan.
Day 3: Hakata, Yutoku Inari Shrine
We arrived in Busan around 5:30 AM, and the lights in the economy cabin turned on. Stepping out onto the deck, we enjoyed the serene view of Hakata Port and the Hakata Port Tower in the early morning.
If you ordered breakfast, you can head to the restaurant. We didn’t, so we took our time washing up, wandering the deck, and packing our things to prepare for disembarkation.
Disembarkation officially starts at 7:30 AM, and everyone will queue at the 3rd-floor lobby exit with their luggage.
By around 8:00 AM, we completed immigration in Japan and exited the Hakata Port International Shipping Terminal.
A reminder: You cannot use electronic gates at Hakata Port, so please make sure to fill out the immigration and customs cards. ⚠️
Once outside, there are buses heading to Hakata Station or the Tenjin area.
- Although it’s inconvenient to take a bus with large luggage, since this is the departure station, there will definitely be seats available. Most people also have luggage, so it’s less awkward.
- There will be a few people getting on at the intermediate stops, but it’s not too crowded.
- On weekdays in the morning, the subway back to Hakata isn’t too busy, so there’s no need to feel awkward (Kyushu is spacious!).
Around 9:30 AM, we dropped off our luggage at the hotel and headed to the food street in the Hakata Station department store for a morning meal of clam soup set to fill our stomachs, and to pick up our JR Pass and train tickets for tomorrow morning to Yufuin.
The JR Kyushu Pass can currently only be exchanged at a manned counter, so please go early to queue for the exchange. If there are too many people at Hakata Station, you might consider exchanging at a nearby station for a quicker process!
Yutoku Inari Shrine
Originally, we planned to visit Karatsu Castle, but after checking the JR limited express schedule, we decided that Yutoku Inari Shrine was closer and quicker, especially after yesterday’s fatigue.
We took the train from Hakata to Hizen-Kashima Station in Kashima City.
After exiting the station, walk left along the road to wait for the bus on the opposite side at stop 2.
This is different from Google Maps, which directed me to walk to Nakamuta Station to wait for the bus, about 500 meters away.
Please note that I visited in June 2024, and the platform may change over time.
Yutoku Inari Shrine
After getting off the bus in front of Yutoku Shrine, just walk back to reach the Omotesando.
I’m not sure if it was because it was a weekday, but the Omotesando and shopping streets were almost deserted, with very few shops open.
Walking all the way to the end (about 15 minutes) leads you to the shrine.
At the entrance of the shrine, the glass building behind is an elevator; if you don’t want to walk up, you can pay to take the elevator.
As you walk up, there’s a row of prayer wind chimes. When I went, there was no one around, and as I passed by the wind chimes, a gust of wind rang through them.
Walking through a row of torii gates and beautiful blooming hydrangeas, you can hike up to the Okunoin (about 200M, steep and difficult to walk).
After visiting, we returned to the station and headed back to JR.
Comparing the Uo Shrine’s torii gate in the sea with Karatsu Castle, I felt the sea torii gate was quite ordinary (after all, I’ve seen the grand torii gate at Itsukushima Shrine) and the transportation was quite troublesome, so I planned to head directly to Karatsu.
I made a mistake while changing trains; this was a small station with no electronic boards. When I got off, I saw the platform sign saying “Karatsu direction” and thought I could change trains there. However, when the time came, the train passed through from another platform, and I missed it.
After studying the schedule carefully, I realized that I needed to check the box in the lower right corner of the timetable for the correct waiting platform, as the platforms may not be the same on weekdays and holidays.
Since I missed the train to Karatsu and couldn’t return to the Uo Shrine’s torii gate, and after yesterday’s chaos, I decided to head straight back to the hotel in Hakata to rest.
On the way back, I discovered something interesting. I was wondering why the train at the small station didn’t open its doors (I was sitting in the back car); upon closer observation, I found that at a station without staff, the train conductor is also the station staff. To get off, you have to exit from the first car and pay the fare according to the screen or swipe your transport card (just like on a bus). If you use the JR Pass, you only need to show it to the driver.
Additionally, I want to remind you again that if you exit a JR station without staff, you can just walk out with your JR Pass. Do not drop your JR Pass into the ticket collection box. ⚠️
Around 4:00 PM, we returned to Hakata and the hotel.
Please note that the washing machines at Toyoko Inn may not have detergent, so check first to see if it’s an automatic detergent-dispensing machine ⚠️
If not, you’ll need to insert coins or buy detergent from the front desk (30 yen).
After putting my clothes in the washing machine, I went to the underground food street at Hakata Station to find something to eat.
I bought a steak bento to eat back at the hotel, which was great; the tea was okay, not much flavor.
I also bought a Yakult 1000 to drink at night, BRULEE caramel ice cream for dessert (so sweet!), and some fried shrimp for a late-night snack (this time I actually got whole fried shrimp, unlike the fake ones I bought in Kumamoto).
Laundry (30 mins), drying (1 hr), rest.
Day 4: Yufuin, Oita
[_Reference itinerary: KKday Japan Kyushu Fukuoka Oita Day Trip Dazaifu Tenmangu, Yufuin, Beppu Sea Hell & Kamado Hell Departing from Hakata (Chinese, English, Japanese)_](https://www.kkday.com/zh-tw/product/125898?cid=19365&ud1=cb65fd5ab770){:target=”_blank”}
Early in the morning, we checked out and dragged our luggage to JR Hakata Station to take the Yufu 1
train to Yufuin.
- You can store your suitcase in the luggage compartment; if you’re worried about it sliding, you can lay it sideways.
- A cup of coffee to wake up.
- The scenery along the way in this season is lush green, but nothing particularly eye-catching (or is it only the Yufuin no Mori that has views?).
Upon arriving at Yufuin Station, I immediately turned right to the coin lockers to store my luggage, as there are fewer spots available for suitcases (1,000 yen).
Perhaps due to the season and weather, I found the overall tone to be gray and green, lacking any special feeling.
Walking along the street leads you to Kinrin Lake, where the green lakeside exudes a sense of tranquility.
Kinrin Lake is very clean and clear, with many maple leaves (not yet changed color).
Along the street from Yufuin Station to Kinrin Lake, there are many IP and creative shops to explore. If you’re interested in food, you can also check out the Yufuin Gold Award desserts, which include pudding, ice cream, and more.
Of course, you can’t miss the Totoro Forest, Ghibli characters, and the “Kyushu specialty” Kumamon that can be seen everywhere.
The Yufuin Showa-kan has a very traditional Japanese feel.
The Flower Village looked too touristy and crowded, so I didn’t go in to take a look.
On the way, I bought the famous pudding dorayaki and some souvenirs (sesame powder, Yufuin brick factory - Seven Lucky Gods, creative items, incense Yufuin fragrance, etc.).
A little side note: I unexpectedly ran into a colleague in this paradise of Yufuin XD — Pinkoi community sister
For lunch, we originally planned to eat the famous Yufuin Kamameshi at Yufuin Mabushi Shin, with one location at Kinrin Lake and another at the station exit. However, the station exit location was closed that day, and we didn’t feel like walking back to the main store, so we decided to eat at Sushi Gen on the first floor instead.
I had the Bungo beef steak, and my friend had a rice bowl; the beef was delicious, very flavorful and juicy, with no fishy taste, and the price was reasonable.
After eating, we strolled around a bit, and by around 3:00 PM, we took the train to continue on to Oita.
There are quite a few trains from Yufuin to Oita, and there were not many people (maybe more people were returning to Hakata?). There are also local trains, so we took a local train this time and practiced the new Japanese I learned:
1
2
この電車は大分に行きますか。
はい、大分に行きます。
4:20 PM Oita
We happened to encounter some installation art at Oita Station (it even makes sounds).
Oita gives off a vibe of being far from the hustle and bustle; while wandering around the city center, it felt unusually quiet, with only the faint sound of car engines and not many people or vehicle noises.
First, I dropped off my luggage at the hotel. The layout of Toyoko Inn is quite similar across locations, and I happened to get a room that was exactly like the one I had at Hakata Station yesterday. The only difference is that the bathroom here is larger, while the hallway is narrower.
Since it was still early, I thought I’d take a stroll around the area and casually opened Google Maps to check out nearby attractions.
Giant Bougainvillea
On the way to Oita Castle, I spotted a giant bougainvillea in the park’s parking lot (it looked a bit like a curse from Jujutsu Kaisen).
Oita Castle
All that remains of Oita Castle are the moat, castle walls, and courtyard, which now features an open parking lot and a platform for the castle tower, offering a view of Oita City.
There’s an official AR App available that lets you see what Oita Castle looked like in the past.
After wandering around, I headed back to the station market to grab some food. The buses in Oita have a vintage feel but are well-maintained.
For dinner, I wasn’t sure what to eat, so I casually picked up a pork cutlet rice bowl and a Suntory non-alcoholic sparkling drink (it was delicious!). The sauce packets in Japan are thoughtfully designed with a small corner for easy opening.
For a late-night snack, I had a strawberry smoothie ice cream, some grilled food, and a limited-edition Kirin pineapple beer (it had a strong pineapple flavor and was a bit sweet).
Day 5: Beppu Hell, Beppu
Reference itinerary:
KKday 【Beppu and Yufuin Day Tour】 Nyoirinji Temple + Beppu Hell + Yufuin (Departing from Fukuoka)
_[Kyushu Beppu Hell Hot Spring Tour General Admission / Pre-sale Tickets Buy Now, Use Now](https://www.kkday.com/zh-tw/product/122902-beppu-hell-tour-common-admission-ticket-advance-ticket-japan?cid=19365&ud1=cb65fd5ab770){:target=”blank”}
The JR Limited Express from Oita Station to Beppu Station takes only about 15 minutes, and the scenery along the way is somewhat reminiscent of the journey from Hiroshima to Kure.
After arriving at JR, I transferred to a bus heading to Beppu Hell — the first stop is the Sea Hell, following the order shown in the itinerary above.
- I wanted to visit all seven hells, so I bought a full set of seven tickets at the entrance of Sea Hell, which was cheaper.
- If you’re short on time, I think you could just visit Sea Hell.
- To enter, you only need to tear off a corner of the ticket and drop it into the box.
- Each hell has a free foot bath area for relaxation.
Sea Hell
I found Sea Hell to be the most spectacular, with constantly bubbling steam and deep blue hot spring water.
There’s a small plateau and a shrine at the back.
The small blood pond on the other side is also quite unique.
After leaving Sea Hell, just follow the signs to the next stop, Oniishi Bozu Hell.
Oniishi Bozu Hell
This one mainly features mud geysers.
After exiting, there are also signs leading to the next hell.
Kamado Hell
The milk pool at Kamado Hell looks like a great place to soak.
However, the highlight of Kamado Hell isn’t the hot spring itself, but the smoke. Staff members use incense sticks and blow air to create a large amount of smoke from the hot spring steam, which is quite fascinating (it’s said that the particles from the incense sticks attract more water vapor molecules, causing them to cluster).
Another feature of Kamado Hell is the long row of hot spring experiences, including rock foot baths, drinking hot spring water (which tastes a bit thick and salty), foot soaks, face steaming, hand steaming, and throat steaming (just like visiting a pediatrician in Taiwan XD).
This area is larger, with more activities to experience, and there are shops selling snacks, making it a nice place to relax.
Once again, you can see the sign for Oniyama Hell as you exit.
Oniyama Hell
The water at Oniyama Hell boils even more vigorously, constantly bubbling over.
On the other side of the park is a crocodile garden.
Following the signs down leads to Shiraike Hell.
You’ll pass the Hell Hot Spring Museum (with a café) where you can take a break.
Shiraike Hell
Shiraike Hell is less distinctive, featuring a small tropical fish aquarium.
The remaining Blood Pond Hell and Tornado Hell are not in this area and require a bus transfer to reach.
After exiting Shiraike Hell, I walked down to the intersection, turned left, and waited for the bus at the Takarada 2 stop.
Blood Pond Hell
First, I visited Blood Pond Hell, which has a small blood pond similar to Sea Hell, but on a larger scale.
Continuing down leads to Tornado Hell.
Tornado Hell
Tornado Hell is an intermittent geyser that erupts approximately every 30-40 minutes, lasting about 6-10 minutes each time. You can ask the staff at Tornado Hell (they were proactive in informing us) if it’s about to erupt; if it is, you can watch, but if you have to wait, you can visit Blood Pond Hell first.
The steam during the eruption forms a tornado, hence the name.
Gokurakutei
I had lunch at Gokurakutei in Blood Pond Hell.
I tried the famous Hell Gokuraku Curry, which features Japanese rice that’s perfectly cooked and paired with thick curry (slightly spicy), along with grilled vegetables and chicken. It was delicious and refreshing without being heavy.
After eating, I found out there are nearby attractions like Kifune Castle, Jizoyama Observatory, Myoban Hell, and Yufuin…
Kifune Castle
On my way back to the Takarada 2 bus stop, I decided to check out Kifune Castle. The castle is small, but the view from the lookout is nice. However, the walk from the bus stop and the uphill trek can be tiring.
The Jizoyama Observatory, Myoban Hell, and Yufuin are actually located above Sea Hell; if I were to replan my itinerary, I would visit these attractions first, then go down to Sea Hell, and finally to Blood Pond Hell and Tornado Hell, or vice versa, starting with Blood Pond and Tornado.
Jizoyama Observatory
I took the bus back to Takarada 2 and headed to Jizoyama Observatory, which offers a view of Beppu City. The sun was blazing hot, and the observatory only had restrooms, with no shops or resting areas.
The green mountains across from the entrance were beautiful.
Since it’s known for its night view, there wasn’t much to see in the morning; it was just hot.
Myoban Hell
I headed back down to Myoban Hell, where the ticket booth is located at the Okamotoya Pudding Shop across the street. Just gesture to the staff that you want to go to the other side.
You can try a hell-steamed pudding before you leave.
The Yufuin Flower House is where they dry the hot spring to obtain crystals. If you walk up to the Yufuin Flower shop, they sell this hot spring bath additive.
Yufuin Flower House
I bought some bath additives, face masks, and creams as souvenirs from the Yufuin Flower shop.
Additionally, they offer private baths for those who might feel shy about using public hot springs.
At this point, it was around 4:00 PM, and I was getting ready to take the bus back to the city.
Beppu
After returning to Beppu Station, I walked to Beppu Tower, casually exploring along the way (the statue in front of the station, the old hot spring hall, and the great Tengu).
Beppu Tower
At Beppu Tower, I bought a ticket from the vending machine on the first floor and took the elevator up to get a bird’s-eye view of the coastal area of Beppu.
Looking down at the streets and cars from above was quite soothing.
Inside the tower, there’s a meteorite exhibit.
In addition to Beppu Tower, you can also visit the cable car or the new Beppu World Tower.
Additionally, the Beppu Tourism Bureau website offers other itinerary references :
Head back to the hotel to rest.
After resting at the hotel, I went to the Oita Station market to buy dinner: a pork cutlet bento and a locally exclusive fruit wine (refreshing and not too sweet).
For dessert/snacks, I had fried shrimp, instant noodles, white peach ice cream, and jasmine tea (which I’m not a fan of).
Day 6: Shimonoseki, Karatsu
I started from Oita to Kokura, then headed to Mojiko and Shimonoseki. Shimonoseki and Karatsu are about 140 kilometers apart, which is not a typical itinerary for most people. I really wanted to visit Karatsu since I missed it on my first day in Japan due to taking the wrong train, so I decided to push through with a one-day trip.
I woke up late, around 8:40 AM, and took the JR Limited Express to Kokura, where I planned to drop off my luggage before taking a local line to Mojiko.
It started to drizzle in Oita, and I realized that every city I’ve visited has had rain. (The rain god is definitely at work.)
I arrived at Kokura Station around 10 AM and searched for a long time, but all the self-service luggage lockers were full (a friend told me he found space at 9 AM). The manned luggage counter wouldn’t open until 11 AM, so I had to drag my luggage directly to Mojiko and look for options there.
After exiting Mojiko Station, I went left (without leaving the building) to find the self-service coin lockers. There were quite a few people at Mojiko this time, and all the lockers were full; luckily, the manned luggage counter had opened, and I was able to store my bags successfully (but note that this counter only operates until 8 PM! ⚠️).
I initially wanted to eat Mojiko curry since there were no lines last year, but upon exiting the station, I saw a long queue and decided to give up. I turned right to wait for the bus to Shimonoseki.
Shimonoseki
I got off at the underground pedestrian walkway in Shimonoseki and saw the Kanmon Bridge from a different angle. The right side of the image shows the view from the nostalgic observation room at Mojiko last year.
There’s a torii gate for the Hōbukiri Shrine here, and up the mountain behind it is the Hōbukiri Shrine and its observation deck.
Taking the elevator from the pedestrian entrance to B1 leads to the walking area, which is free for pedestrians, but bicycles have a toll of 20 yen. Also, be careful of wild boars in the area! XD
The walkway is 780 meters long and goes straight to the end, where you’ll find a dividing line in the middle.
Once I reached Shimonoseki, I found a shop selling simple snacks and bought a takoyaki to fill my stomach. (It was chewy inside, crispy on the outside, and had real octopus—delicious!)
From across the way, I could see the Kanmon Bridge and the nostalgic observation room at Mojiko, reminiscent of the view from Tamsui in Taiwan.
I walked along the coast to Karato Market.
On the way to Karato Market, I passed by Akama Shrine and decided to stop by for a visit.
At the coast outside Karato Market, many people were picnicking after buying food. Despite the crowd, it was still very clean. Since I mainly wanted to check out the area and don’t eat raw food, I didn’t go inside; it looked quite busy around lunchtime.
After Karato Market, there’s a dock where you can take a ferry directly back to Mojiko. You can buy tickets from the automatic ticket machines at the shops across the way; if you have time, you can also visit Iwaya Island (the site of legendary duels!).
The ferry takes about 10 minutes to reach Mojiko. (It really felt like the ferry from Tamsui to Bali!)
Back at Mojiko, it started to rain. Since I had already visited Mojiko last year, I didn’t linger and prepared to head to the station to pick up my luggage and set off for Kokura and Hakata.
It was around 2 PM, and I figured I would reach Karatsu Castle around 4:30 PM. Time was of the essence, so I decided to use my New Taiwan Dollars (Japanese Yen) to buy a ticket for the Sanyo Shinkansen from Kokura to Hakata, which travels at a speed of 300 km/h. It only takes 15 minutes to reach (the JR Limited Express takes 45 minutes, and the local train takes 65 minutes).
The JR Pass does not cover the Sanyo Shinkansen (Kokura to Hakata section). If you want to take the Nozomi or Mizuho trains, you need to buy tickets separately at the Shinkansen platform. Using the JR Pass will be denied entry, and if you accidentally enter and exit, you will also be denied and need to pay the fare (as I experienced last time). ⚠️
From JR Karatsu, it takes about 20 minutes to walk to Karatsu Castle, but the express bus stops right in front of the castle, so I decided to take the express bus instead. (It was my first time riding one!)
After arriving in Hakata, I took the subway to Tenjin Minami and completed my luggage storage in the underground shopping area. (I was lucky to find the last available luggage space at number 2.)
From the west exit of Tenjin underground shopping area, I followed the signs to Fukuoka Mitsukoshi and the Tenjin Express Bus Terminal on the 3rd floor to reach the bus station.
Since I wasn’t sure if I needed to make a reservation or buy a ticket, I went directly to the counter to buy a ticket. After purchasing the ticket, I was very hungry, so I grabbed a bread from Starbucks and went to the designated platform to wait for the bus. (I found out that I didn’t need a reservation for the bus to Karatsu; I could use my transportation card, just like taking a bus; no matter where you get off, the fare is fixed at 1,100 yen.)
At 15:02, I boarded the express bus to Karatsu (Hōbōtōzaki), which was about 80% full.
The right image shows the view of this road from Fukuoka Tower last year, and this year, I’m looking at Fukuoka Tower from this road. (It gives a sense of time and space crossing.)
Most of the passengers were commuters, and after passing through Karatsu city, I was the only one left on the bus. I was headed to the final stop—Hōbōtōzaki.
Karatsu
[_KKday Private Car Tour Reference: “One-Day Tour in Fukuoka, Kyushu, Japan Fukuoka Tower, Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine, Ohori Park, Karatsu, Sakurai Futamigaura, Yanagase Morning Market, Itoshima, Tenjin Underground Shopping Area Flexible Itinerary!”_](https://www.kkday.com/zh-tw/product/144234?cid=19365&ud1=cb65fd5ab770){:target=”_blank”}
After getting off, I walked a bit forward to Hōbōtōzaki, and if I continued straight, I would reach Karatsu Castle. Seeing this view of the bridge and castle made all the travel worthwhile.
I arrived here around 16:35, and with only 25 minutes left until Karatsu Castle closed, I thought since I was already here, I might as well take a walk.
To reach Karatsu Castle, you have to walk up a hill from below. Since time was tight, I turned left to take the elevator up to Maizuru Park.
The elevator ride costs 100 yen one way; just buy a ticket from the vending machine at the entrance and hand it to the staff.
The main keep was closed for visits, so I just enjoyed the view and the scenery of Karatsu Castle.
I returned to the entrance just before the elevator doors closed and followed the tourist map back to JR Karatsu Station on foot.
I walked along the stone wall path to Karatsu Shrine. (The road was deserted and desolate.)
Karatsu Shrine (closed after 17:00) and the old Karatsu Bank (designed by the same architect as Tokyo Station—Kingo Tatsuno).
Near the station is the Hiki-yama Exhibition Hall (also closed after 17:00), so I could only look at the small models at the station.
After reaching Karatsu Station, I took the JR back to Hakata (Tenjin Minami); I encountered an issue upon exiting because I entered through JR Karatsu Station and exited at Tenjin Minami. The station staff did not recognize my JR Pass and required me to pay for the entire segment (from JR Karatsu to Tenjin Minami). QQ.
It was pouring rain in Hakata (the rain god was at it again), so I grabbed a rice ball from the Tenjin underground shopping area for dinner and dragged my luggage to the hotel.
This APA hotel had a larger space, but the overall facilities were quite old. It was also my first time staying in an APA without an integrated bathroom, and there was no hot spring bath or smart integration (like checking the washing machine, Airplay, etc.).
For snacks, I had a strawberry smoothie, and for a late-night snack, I had convenience store fried chicken and a sweet autumn dessert.
End of a long day.
Day 7: Sasebo (Ninety-Nine Islands), Takeo Onsen
It was cloudy in the morning, and it was the last day of my JR Pass. I couldn’t change my itinerary, so I continued on the train to Sasebo.
The JR ride took about an hour and a half, and I recorded a segment of the JR Kyushu train announcement as a memory.
Here’s the translated text in naturalistic English, while keeping the original markdown image sources:
In the last segment, the ride from Hayaki to Sasebo will be in reverse (about 10 minutes). If you’re prone to motion sickness, you can use your feet to switch the direction of your seat.
After exiting Sasebo Station, cross the street to the opposite side and walk towards the back to find bus stop number 6, heading to “Kujukushima Aquarium.”
Transfer to the bus and get off at the Kujukushima Aquarium stop. After about a 5-minute walk, you’ll reach the Kujukushima sightseeing boat visitor center, where you can buy tickets for the boat ride. (Showing your JR Pass will get you a discount.)
KKday online ticket purchase: Kujukushima Sightseeing Boat Tickets in Nagasaki, Japan
Kujukushima Sightseeing Boat
Kujukushima Official Website Information
This time, we took the white Pearl Queen boat at 11:00 on the left.
It was pouring rain, and the weather was terrible. I couldn’t become a pirate king; I just had to hold an umbrella while battling the wind and rain.
[] (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oobNn7ZnMLg){:target=”_blank”}
The boat has announcements in Chinese, English, Japanese, and Korean. The journey lasts about 50 minutes and has restrooms and a shop on board.
You can go up to the deck and the birdwatching platform, but due to the heavy rain and wind that day, I didn’t go up.
When the boat passes between the two islands, the wind can be particularly strong, so be careful.
There are seats inside the cabin.
After the sightseeing tour in the heavy rain, where I didn’t see much, we headed back to Sasebo.
On the way back, we stopped by Bee House to taste Sasebo’s famous lemon steak.
Lemon steak consists of four thin slices of steak, sauce, lemon slices, and lemon juice. It has a refreshing taste, though the portion of meat is a bit small.
After eating, I ordered another local specialty, fruit cream puffs, which were filled with real fruit chunks.
After finishing, I strolled around the shopping street before taking the bus back to the station.
I took the train back towards (Hakata, Takeo Onsen). Since this was the last stop, I had to wait for the cleaning staff to finish before boarding. Just like on the way there, the ride from Hayaki to Sasebo was in reverse.
At this point, it was around 13:30.
You can also visit Huis Ten Bosch in Sasebo, but I didn’t have any specific plans to go there.
KKday Sasebo reference itinerary:
_[Nagasaki, Japan Huis Ten Bosch Ticket](https://www.kkday.com/zh-tw/product/3988-japan-nagasaki-huis-ten-bosch-ticket?cid=19365&ud1=cb65fd5ab770){:target=”blank”}
[_Nagasaki, Japan Sasebo Military Port Yacht Tour_](https://www.kkday.com/zh-tw/product/116880?cid=19365&ud1=cb65fd5ab770){:target=”blank”}
_[Sasebo Shore Excursion Resorts World One](https://www.kkday.com/zh-tw/product/173080?cid=19365&ud1=cb65fd5ab770){:target=”blank”}
Takeo Onsen
[_KKday itinerary reference: “One Day Tour in Saga, Kyushu Yutoku Inari Shrine, Ureshino Onsen, Mifuneyama Rakuen, Takeo Library & Takeo Shrine / Tosu Premium Outlets” (Departing from Hakata, Fukuoka)](https://www.kkday.com/zh-tw/product/143394-kyushu-saga-1-day-tour-japan?cid=19365&ud1=cb65fd5ab770){:target=”blank”}
Last time I passed through Takeo Onsen while changing trains in Nagasaki, I didn’t have much of an impression of this station. Later, I followed Takeo City’s tourism Instagram (the official account regularly holds events, such as free shuttle services for firefly viewing). This time, since I happened to be passing by and had time, I thought I would check it out.
From Takeo Station (a non-staffed station, no need to insert your JR Pass, just exit), the streets outside were quiet and sparsely populated.
Just passing through, I only visited the main attractions I found, which were conveniently diagonal from each other. Since the bus frequency was low and I didn’t want to wait, I walked instead.
First, I went to Takeo Shrine, passing by the Tsukazaki Great Camphor Tree, a small attraction along the way.
The Tsukazaki Great Camphor Tree is estimated to be around 2,000 years old.
Takeo Shrine
From the bottom, you have to walk a short flight of stairs to reach Takeo Shrine.
Next to Takeo Shrine, if you pass through the sacred tree torii gate and walk about 5 minutes, you’ll see the legendary Takeo Great Camphor Tree (estimated to be around 3,000 years old).
The Takeo Great Camphor Tree is enclosed, so you can only view it from a distance.
I bought a Takeo Shrine Great Camphor Amulet (1,500 yen), which is larger and comes in a wooden box.
After visiting Takeo Shrine, I walked back to see the entrance of Horai-yu.
The entire hot spring street was deserted, with several hot springs and hotels to choose from (you don’t have to go to Horai-yu). It feels like a great choice if you want a quiet and less crowded place to soak in hot springs in Kyushu, with convenient transportation!
Horai-yu Entrance
A visit here.
After entering the entrance, you’ll find Horai-yu for soaking, and on the other side, there’s the onsen accommodation, Sagi-no-yu.
The Takeo City tourist map shows that Mifuneyama Rakuen looks nice, but by this time it was almost 15:30, so I wouldn’t have time to go.
I took the limited express train back to Hakata, arriving around 18:00.
I strolled back to the hotel, casually grabbing dinner from a convenience store: rice balls, a pork cutlet sandwich, and Peach Soda from Fujiya (so good!!). After staying at APA and Toyoko Inn so many times, I finally discovered they all have ice machines—what a treat!
Aside from the old facilities, this APA hotel had a really nice room size and view.
Day 8: Sakurai Futamigaura, Nanzoin, Hakata Tour
No more JR Pass.
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Sakurai Futamigaura
After checking out of the hotel in the morning, I took the JR train to Kyudai Gakkentoshi Station.
To the left of the station is the platform for the Nishi-no-ura Line, with staff directing passengers. The ride takes about 30 minutes.
The fare was the highest I’ve ever paid for a bus ride: 730 yen.
After getting off, I arrived at Sakurai Futamigaura.
It was beautiful and tranquil up close.
_After this, you can continue to Sakurai Shrine (which is said to attract many fans because it shares the same name as a member of the Japanese group Arashi) or head further to Kuyakumon Tourist Boat (which looks really cool!)._
The return schedule shows that there is a direct bus to Hakata every hour in the afternoon, and a bus back to Kyudai Gakkentoshi Station every hour.
I returned to Hakata around 12:30 and went to find something to eat.
Revisit Hakata Miyachiku (Japan’s No. 1 Miyazaki Beef Specialty Store) to enjoy a Miyazaki beef business lunch.
The business lunch had an excellent cost-performance ratio (the dinner is a high-end yakiniku set) and was perfect for introverts with private booths.
This time, I ordered the lean meat set, 200g for 3,200 yen, and devoured two bowls of rice (the rice and soup are free to refill).
Nanzoin
After returning to Hakata, I took the train to Nanzoin-mae Station.
After exiting the station, I walked straight out, passing by the Arakami Tea House (where you can rest and have lunch). Cross the street, and you’ll reach the entrance to Nanzoin.
- Go right to visit the reclining Buddha; on the left, there are also statues for love, peace, and Fudo Myoo.
- Nanzoin is a private institution and has many areas where photography is prohibited, so please adhere to the rules. No short sleeves, shorts, exposing the stomach or shoulders, playing music, dancing, or photography (e.g., at the entrance cave with the row of tablets, Fudo Myoo statue).
After reaching the platform, you can see the reclining Buddha, which has scriptures on the soles of its feet. The overall view is very grand and solemn.
After the visit, I took the train back to Hakata Station, arriving around 15:40.
Hakata Tour
I wanted to visit some places I missed last time in Kyushu.
Gion — Tochoji Temple
On the second floor of Tochoji Temple, you can pay 50 yen to worship the Great Buddha of Fukuoka.
After worshiping, I had about an hour before dinner at 17:00 at Tetsunabe Gyoza, so I went for a stroll in Ohori Park.
Ohori Park
Ohori Park is quite large, and walking around takes about 45 minutes; you can also paddle swan boats.
Feel free to let me know if you need any further modifications or additional translations!
The Fukuoka City Art Museum is closed on Mondays, so we could only admire Yayoi Kusama’s pumpkin from a distance.
After finishing our stroll, it was around 5:00 PM, time for dinner!
Iron Pan Gyoza - 鉄なべ
I had been to Iron Pan Gyoza - 鉄なべ once before and still remembered the delicious crispy gyoza.
They have another branch, Iron Pan Gyoza - 鉄なべ 博多 祇園店 , but when I passed by a few days ago, it was closed for renovations, with a notice asking customers to go to the main store. (However, Google Maps still shows it as open)
Sauces and water are self-service.
The restaurant does not support electronic payments and only accepts cash. ⚠️
Around 5:20 PM, I saw people waiting outside, and soon, the staff came out to let us in.
This time, I knew to order two servings of gyoza. Last time, the staff indicated that one serving wouldn’t be enough (I didn’t understand then). One serving has 8 pieces (500 yen), so I ordered two servings for 16 pieces and added a draft beer to wrap up this round!
The gyoza are freshly made to order and arrive sizzling. The skin is thin and crispy, and the filling is likely a mix of chives and pork, simple yet flavorful without being overly salty.
After finishing at 6:00 PM, I noticed a line forming outside.
After dinner, I walked back to the hotel and passed by the food stalls in Nakasu, noticing many shared bicycles this time.
I’ve been switching hotels a lot this trip; it’s exhausting. This is the hotel for the last three days.
For snacks, I had ice cream and a convenience store hot dog for a late-night bite.
Day 9 KKDAY Takachiho Day Trip: Takachiho Shrine, Takachiho Gorge, Amano Iwato Shrine, Amano Yasugawara
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07:45 Depart from Hakata Station Chikushi Exit (Hakata Back Station)
At the LAWSON (Lawson) Hakata Station Chikushi Exit Store, I found the tour guide for the day trip to our destination. (There were several groups at the same time, including KKDAY’s own group, EasyGo’s, and those heading to Takachiho and Yufuin, etc.)
The guide (who speaks Chinese) had a list and would tell you the bus number after checking in, so you could board directly.
Seats are first come, first served. If you have special needs (like motion sickness), you can inform the guide.
08:00 Depart once everyone has arrived
- The guide introduced themselves (Shikan), speaking in Chinese, English, and Japanese.
- They explained that the Takachiho day trip is the longest and most challenging among all the day trip options XD.
- There’s WiFi on the bus (though it’s not very stable).
- Always wear your seatbelt ⚠️
- Most of the passengers were Taiwanese.
- The guide introduced Takachiho Shrine and checked if anyone had reserved a boat ride.
- It takes about 3 hours to reach the first Takachiho Shrine.
About Takachiho Boat Rides
The boat ride isn’t long, taking about 30–45 minutes round trip. We should finish lunch around 12:00 PM, and the Takachiho itinerary will conclude around 1:20 PM, after which we’ll regroup to return.
In our group, three sets of people had reservations.
Therefore, if you want to combine the day trip with a boat ride, 12:00 / 12:30 would be a more suitable time. ⚠️
After lunch, we’ll need to walk to Takachiho Gorge. If anyone has a boat reservation or feels they can’t handle the walk, the guide has arranged a shuttle to save time.
Ultimately, it’s best to follow KKDAY’s arrangements, so I recommend checking with the official source before making a reservation to ensure there are no issues. ⚠️
9:20 Rest Stop
Since the journey is longer, we’ll stop at a rest area for 10 minutes to let everyone use the restroom and stretch.
10:50 Arrive at Takachiho Shrine
Takachiho Shrine is surrounded by sacred trees, exuding tranquility and freshness.
The Couple Cedar was mentioned by the guide on the bus. If you come with family, a partner, or friends, you can hold hands and walk around the tree three times to make a wish.
Around 11:20, we returned to the bus for regrouping.
11:30 Lunch at Takachiho Cuisine - 神楽宿
After visiting Takachiho Shrine, we headed nearby for lunch.
You need to wear slippers; the place feels like a Japanese restaurant designed for group tourists, but it was my first experience at a Japanese restaurant.
The overall meal was mediocre, possibly because of the large group, as most dishes were cold, and the meat quality was just average.
12:15 Start walking to Takachiho Gorge (downhill all the way)
After lunch, we followed the guide downhill to Takachiho Gorge.
After about a 20-minute walk, we reached Takachiho Gorge, where we could see the end of the gorge (the boat ride stop).
12:45 Arrive at Takachiho Gorge
From the bridge at Takachiho Gorge, you can look back at the ancient path we just walked and the boats below.
The boat launch is just past the bridge, and the total length (to the stop we just saw) is about 250 meters.
There’s a small park and shopping street where you can grab ice cream or snacks to recharge.
13:20 Regroup back at the tour bus
Around 13:45 Arrive at Amano Iwato Shrine West Main Hall (Check for other itineraries during cherry blossom season)
After getting off the bus, we walked about 5 minutes to Amano Iwato Shrine West Main Hall, where different deity masks are hung outside the shops along the street.
The guide shared the story of Amaterasu, which was introduced on the bus.
To reach Amano Yasugawara, we also need to walk a short distance. The guide suggested we walk together to Amano Yasugawara first, and then everyone can return at their own pace (or follow the guide back).
Around 14:00 Walk to Amano Yasugawara
Around 14:15 Arrive at Amano Yasugawara
Amano Yasugawara is a cave where Amaterasu once hid; the area around the shrine’s torii gate is filled with stones left by worshippers.
On the way back, we passed an ice cream shop.
Everyone lined up for ice cream, and I tried the local Miyazaki mango ice cream (900 yen). The guide mentioned that Miyazaki mangoes are quite premium, but honestly, I still think Taiwanese mangoes have a stronger flavor.
After resting, we slowly walked back to visit Amano Iwato Shrine.
Around 15:10 Regroup for return
After the last stop, it was already past 3 PM, and we needed to start heading back (still a three-hour drive back to Fukuoka).
Around 16:40 Stop at a rest area
On the return trip, we also stopped at a rest area for everyone to use the restroom and stretch.
Around 18:00 Arrive back at Hakata Station Chikushi Exit (Hakata Back Station)
The trip concluded smoothly, thanks to Shikan for leading and organizing the itinerary 👏👏👏👏👏.
For dinner, I casually bought a convenience store hot dog and a rice ball from the Tenjin underground shopping area that I had tried on Day 6. The new grape-flavored Suntory drink was delicious!! I also had a BRULEE for a snack.
Good night.
Day 10 Shopping in Hakata, Shopping in Tenjin, Baseball at PayPay Dome
The sightseeing itinerary in Kyushu is mostly wrapped up, leaving us with nearly two days for shopping.
In the morning, I first went to Don Quijote (open 24 hours) for some quick shopping. The Tenjin Main Store is quite large, with several floors to explore.
Close to noon, I wandered around the department store at Hakata Station, buying souvenirs, Fukuoka-produced sake, Fukuoka’s famous Castella cake, and Ogura’s rice crackers, among other things.
In the afternoon, I returned to the Tenjin area, visiting the Tenjin underground shopping area, Le Labo, Iwataya Department Store, Mitsui Department Store, etc. (there are many department stores in Tenjin).
I just finished restocking Le Labo’s Another 13 and bought a 50ml bottle (about 5,800 TWD after tax refund).
In Tenjin C-pla, I also had fun playing with a quirky bus stop button XD.
Pressing it makes a sound XD.
After picking up my loot, I returned to the hotel to rest, enjoying a hot dog and dessert along with a must-try in Japan! Draft Cola!
Canal City Hakata
After a short break, I headed out again, arriving at Canal City Hakata at 16:30.
The main attraction was the massive capsule toy department on B1.
https://gofukuoka.jp/zh-tw/spots/detail/196050
After browsing, I made my way to Hakata Station.
Around 17:30, I took a bus from Hakata Station to PayPay Dome to watch a baseball game at 18:00.
Fukuoka SoftBank Hawks vs. Tokyo Yakult Swallows @ Fukuoka PayPay Dome
Today’s matchup is: Fukuoka SoftBank Hawks vs. Tokyo Yakult Swallows
Some entry regulations : You need to open your backpack for security checks, no outside food allowed, you can bring one bottle of tea or drink, no alcohol from outside, food and drinks are available inside, and if you leave, remember to get a re-entry permit.
The mascot of the Fukuoka SoftBank Hawks is named Harry, so of course, I had to come and support the team.
Last time I sat in the more expensive inner home plate section, but this time I thought I’d just sit in the cheapest seats to enjoy the atmosphere. I initially thought there would be free seating, but it turned out all seats were reserved. I chose a spot in the last row on the outer side for easier access (the outer seats don’t have backs, which makes it easier to get in and out).
I can’t help but admire the enthusiasm for professional sports in Japan. On a weekday at 18:00, the stadium has about 40,000 seats, nearly full. When I was selecting my seat, there were no empty rows or corner seats available.
The view and distance were significantly worse compared to last time.
This time, the game ended with a significant loss, 9:3. There were no fireworks to watch, but I did get to see the cheer activities from both teams (the Fukuoka SoftBank Hawks’ balloon cheer and the Tokyo Yakult Swallows’ umbrella dance cheer).
By the end of the 7th inning, it was already 9:1, and people started leaving one by one. I didn’t stay for the end.
The bus stop was packed again, and just like last time, I followed the crowd back to the subway station at Tanginmachi (about a 15-minute walk).
Before heading back to the hotel, I made a point to take one last look at the night view of Nakasu Yatai before leaving Fukuoka.
For a late-night snack, I had Nissin Donbei fried tofu noodles (this was my first time trying it after so many days), fruit wine from Oita, and convenience store fried chicken (Juicy and delicious).
Day 11: Lalaport, Shopping in Hakata, Shopping in Tenjin, Return Trip
I can’t believe it’s already been 11 days since I left for this trip, and I’m starting to miss Taiwanese food. I still have plenty of time to wander around before my flight at 21:00.
https://toyscabin.com/product/20221201_546.php
I had already bought most of my souvenirs and packed my luggage, so today was just about wandering around looking for that capsule toy of the train departure. (In the end, I couldn’t find it; I checked the store list provided by the manufacturer, and all the stores in the city were sold out.)
Lalaport
In the morning, I had some free time to explore Lalaport (it opens at 10:00).
On the first floor, there was a drink vending machine converted from a Nishitetsu bus, which was really cool XD.
I mainly came to the third floor, Gachapon no Mori, and the Pon! located at the bottom of the escalator on the first floor to see if they had the capsule toy I was looking for. (They didn’t.)
As it approached 11:00 and I was quite hungry since I hadn’t had breakfast, I decided to eat seafood tempura rice bowl at the food court on the third floor (it was a bit salty).
I then returned to the first floor to buy some strawberry daifuku from Mizuan to cleanse my palate.
Not finding the capsule toy I was looking for, I left Lalaport and headed back to Hakata Station, where there was also a Pon! inside 1010, but they didn’t have it either.
I also checked the capsule toy area at Yodobashi in Hakata, but still no luck.
After the loss in Hakata, I returned to the Tenjin area to search the capsule toy store, but again, no luck.
Finally, I gave up and decided to check out Animate and Kiddy Land upstairs (which has tons of merchandise from various IPs).
By around 16:00, my trip was coming to an end. I sat down at a Komeda’s Coffee to enjoy some dessert and coffee to relax.
Around 17:00, I returned to the hotel to grab my luggage and slowly made my way to Fukuoka Airport. I thought there would be a lot of people on the subway around 17:00, but it was actually quite empty.
Walking from Tenjin Minami to Tenjin took quite a while, dragging my luggage for about 15 minutes.
After taking the airport line to Fukuoka Airport Station (domestic), I had to transfer to the airport shuttle (free) to get to the international terminal.
The shuttle runs quite frequently, about every 5–10 minutes, and the ride takes about 10 minutes. After getting off, you still have to walk to the 3rd floor departure hall; conservatively speaking, it takes an additional 30 minutes from the airport line subway exit to actually reach the international terminal.
Fukuoka Airport is under renovation, which made things a bit chaotic.
I arrived at the airport too early, and the check-in counters weren’t open yet. The ground staff directed us to first use self-check-in at counter 1 and then go to counter 2 for baggage drop-off, where they would assist us; we quickly completed the baggage check-in (this time it was only 17 kg).
Around 18:30, I started waiting at the gate.
The departure hall for international flights at Fukuoka Airport is long and narrow, packed with people, and very chaotic (I’m not sure if it’s due to the renovations or just too many flights waiting to take off).
The duty-free shops for luxury goods and cosmetics are quite comprehensive, and the staff can speak Chinese; there are also souvenir shops (including Fuku Sanya Nagasaki cakes); the duty-free shop for tobacco and alcohol only has one location with a line, and the food and convenience store lines are even longer.
A special announcement for the previous flight CI129 at 19:10 reminds everyone to comply with China Airlines’ rule of only one carry-on bag; any excess will require an additional purchase (this flight looks fully booked). ⚠️
I felt it was too noisy and chaotic, so I walked towards the north side (gates 501–504), where there were fewer people; there was also a café and casual dining place to grab a bite.
I simply bought a pork cutlet sandwich and a few cans of draft cola and peach soda to take back to Taiwan.
Boarding began around 20:30, and there was no special check for the carry-on bag rule (but I had already crammed everything into one bag…). We prepared for takeoff at 21:00 and took off at 21:09; the plane was an A330–300, which is an older model.
Goodbye Kyushu, goodbye Japan. The in-flight meal was ginger pork stir-fried noodles, which wasn’t great, but the fruit included melon!
We encountered turbulence during the flight, but we landed safely in Taiwan, albeit about 30 minutes late, arriving close to 23:00 (scheduled for 22:25).
Worried about missing public transport, I rushed to the airport. I missed the airport express but thankfully caught the bus; otherwise, I would have had to take an unsafe unlicensed taxi back to Taipei.
Route 1819 takes about 55 minutes to get to Taipei Main Station.
The stops along the way are shown in the image above. If you need to get off at a stop, please inform the driver when you board; he will separate your luggage. Otherwise, all luggage will be placed together for those getting off at Taipei Main Station, and if you need to get off midway, you won’t be able to retrieve your luggage. ⚠️
On June 14, around midnight, I returned to my cozy home, concluding this 11-day journey.
I averaged about 20,000 steps daily, with a maximum of 27,000 steps.
Souvenirs
The box on the right was missed in the photos; I tried it at the Hakata Station department store and found the shrimp chips delicious.
Small Items Collected from Various Places in Japan
This time, I added four of the Seven Lucky Gods, a mini beer, and a Takachiho (dog) good luck charm for the Year of the Dog.
The background newspaper was a gift from Le Labo.
Finally, thank you for reading my travel diary; and thanks to my travel companion James for joining me this time.
Next Travel Inspirations
- Southeast Asia
- Landing in Kagoshima, South Kyushu -> Oita -> Sunflower Ferry -> Kobe -> Himeji Castle -> Amanohashidate -> Return from Nagoya Airport
- Tohoku Region, Sendai
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If you have any questions or suggestions, feel free to contact me.
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