Travel Journal: 10-Day Solo Trip to Kyushu 2023

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ℹ️ℹ️ℹ️ The following content is translated by OpenAI.

Click here to view the original Chinese version. | 點此查看本文中文版

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[Travel Journal] 10-Day Solo Trip to Kyushu 2023

A record of my 10-day free travel in Kyushu, visiting Fukuoka, Nagasaki, and Kumamoto.

[2024 Update] Second Visit to Kyushu

• June 2024: Second Visit to Kyushu (9 days + 2 days in Korea) Entering Japan from Busan, Korea via the New Camellia cruise, exploring Yufuin, Oita, Fukuoka, Shimonoseki, Isahaya, and Sasebo

Introduction

At the end of August, I officially left Pinkoi, where I had spent nearly three years. I had been contemplating leaving for a while, and in the first half of the year, I thought about taking a break to clear my mind and reassess my situation upon returning. So, I traveled with friends to “[Travel Journal] 2023 Kansai & 🇯🇵 First Landing](../76d66c2e34af/)” and with colleagues to “[Travel Journal] 2023 Tokyo & 🇯🇵 Second Landing](../9da2c51fa4f2/)”. However, after returning, I felt an even stronger urge to break free. With my current tasks wrapping up, I gathered the courage to step out of my comfort zone and seek new challenges!

The “[Travel Journal] 9/11 Nagoya Day Trip](../7b8a0563c157/)” was purely coincidental and, as mentioned in the text, felt more like a military march than a relaxing trip.

Taking advantage of this rare opportunity, I decided to explore Japan once more. My original plan was to travel with a friend who was also unemployed, following the route from 🇰🇷 Busan ➡️ 🇯🇵 Fukuoka ➡️ 🇯🇵 Kumamoto. The idea was to travel from Korea to Kumamoto, with a stop in Fukuoka via the New Camellia cruise, which would take about 12 hours overnight, effectively combining commuting and accommodation.

However, my friend found a job in September, and I couldn’t find a new travel companion in time. I didn’t want to move around too much alone, so I decided to skip the 🇰🇷 Busan ➡️ 🇯🇵 Fukuoka leg and instead travel from 🇯🇵 Fukuoka ➡️ 🇯🇵 Kumamoto, returning to Fukuoka from Kumamoto.

With my schedule becoming quite scattered in October and needing to start preparing for a new job, I set my departure date for the end of September (9/17–9/26).

Summary / Retro

As usual, I wrote my summary and reflections at the beginning. I came across a quote in a free travel group that I really liked: “Free travel is about continuously paying tuition (in time or money) to learn; the more experiences you have, the fewer pitfalls you will encounter.”

👍

• The fresh cola, peach soda, FamilyMart juice drinks, and autumn plum wine were delicious!
• Japanese professional baseball is definitely worth watching! When buying tickets, remember to choose seats that are either in an empty row or near the aisle; cheap seats are just fine.
• The JR Pass may not always save you money, but it definitely did in Kyushu! I saved at least over 1,000 TWD.
• Traveling solo led to many interesting encounters; for example, I helped a Japanese family get souvenirs from Miyahara City, a kind foreign sister offered to take my photo, I met a Taiwanese family while cruising, walked the Aso area with a TSMC brother, and even helped a family take photos in Kumamoto, only to run into them again at the airport and help them take another photo… and so on.
• Kumamoto Bear’s presence can be found all over Kyushu (not just in Kumamoto).
• Kyushu feels very spacious, with hardly any crowds; popular restaurants and attractions rarely have lines, making it very comfortable.
• My Japanese improved a bit; I could understand numbers (though I still had to confirm with Google Translate to avoid mispronouncing), whether to use plastic bags, and basic phrases for checkout, such as “this,” “that’s enough,” “cash,” “credit card,” and “tax-free” (XXX お願いします).
• I completed writing my travel journal!

👎

• I had a disappointing stay this time: when booking hotels in Japan, it’s essential to check reviews, especially the low-rated ones, to see if you can accept the criticisms and check the street view to see if the area is walkable.
• I spent too many days in Kumamoto; two days would have sufficed, and I could have spent the other days in Oita. Also, Fukuoka is actually much closer to Kumamoto than to Nagasaki.
• I usually look for accommodation first and then attractions, but since Kyushu is vast, I should have identified the places I wanted to visit first and then arranged accommodation to maximize the attractions I could visit.
• The options, prices, and quality of accommodation in Fukuoka are significantly better than in Kumamoto.
• I missed the Yufuin festival (I went to Nagasaki that day); I should check for festivals on the dates I plan to visit, as everyone recommends attending them.
• The JR Pass can be used on the Shinkansen, but not on the “Nozomi” and “Mizuho” trains; if you take them, you need to pay an additional fare.
• Traveling solo and not speaking the language can be quite lonely; often, I found myself quietly enjoying solitude.
• Solo travel accommodations tend to be more expensive.
• I still rushed through attractions this time; I should have slowed down to enjoy the moment and search for good food, especially since many famous restaurants in Japan are closed after meal times.
• The sun in Kyushu during this season is still quite strong, so sun protection is necessary.
• Northern Nagasaki is average (Dutch and Chinatown), while southern Nagasaki has more unique night views.

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Preparations

Flights

Initially, I considered flying into and out of Fukuoka, with a round trip to Kumamoto (which later proved to be the right choice, XD, as there aren’t many attractions in Kumamoto). I found a China Airlines flight that was cheap at $1,000 for a round trip from Fukuoka to Kumamoto, so I decided on that flight.

Since I had plenty of time, I chose the most luxurious option, departing at noon and returning at noon, totaling 10 days including flight time.

• Outbound: 9/17 CI 116 16:40 TPE -> 20:00 FUK
• Return: 9/26 CI 2195 (New Route on 9/26) 12:30 KMJ -> 13:34 TPE

Price: $10,048

Given the vastness of Kyushu, I purchased the JR Pass North Kyushu Rail Pass (5 days), thinking it would be worth it no matter how I traveled.

Accommodation (9 Nights)

I didn’t think too much or do much research when arranging my accommodations, as I hadn’t been to Fukuoka or Kumamoto before. I decided on a roughly equal split of 5 days in Fukuoka and 4 days in Kumamoto.

Fukuoka 5 Nights — Benikea Calton Hotel Fukuoka Tenjin ( Benikea Calton Hotel Fukuoka Tenjin )

• Price: $7,583, $1,516/night
• Transportation: From Hakata Station, you can take the Nanakuma Line subway to Watanabedori Station or take a bus for a 5-minute walk.

Kumamoto 4 Nights — Green Rich Hotel Suizenji ( Green Rich Hotel Suizenji )

JR Kumamoto -> Hotel

Hotel -> Kumamoto Airport

Finding accommodation in Kumamoto was quite challenging (not sure if it was due to TSMC’s business trips taking up all the rooms), with limited options, higher prices than Fukuoka, and older facilities. In the end, I found this relatively affordable hotel.

• Price: $8,157, $2,039/night
• Transportation: From JR Kumamoto Station, transfer to the Hohi Main Line and then take the tram to reach the hotel (at the City Sports Center Station). The return trip to the airport is also very convenient, with direct buses to Kumamoto Airport right outside.

With the hotel booked, I could fill out the online entry application.

Itinerary

The original plan was as follows:

• 9/17: Arrive in Fukuoka at 21:00, reach the hotel by 22:00, and explore the street food stalls.
• 9/18: Visit Nagasaki (Shinchi Chinatown/Dutch Slope/Glover Garden/Urakami Cathedral/Gunkanjima Digital Museum/Meganebashi), not all of them + Atomic Bomb Museum + Peace Park + night view from the top of Inasayama.
• 9/19: Day trip to Yanagawa and Dazaifu + LaLaport Fukuoka (optional).
• 9/20: Day trip to Mojiko and Kokura Castle + street food.
• 9/21: Shopping in Hakata (Fukuoka Tower, shrines, Canal City, Tenjin Underground Shopping Mall…).
• 9/22: Shopping in Hakata + move to Kumamoto + visit Suizenji Jojuen.
• 9/23: Explore Kumamoto city, visit Kumamoto Castle, and see Kumamon.
• 9/24: Day trip to Aso Volcano.
• 9/25: Shimabara Castle, Shimabara’s three Shiba Inu (very far, considering).
• 9/26: Depart from Kumamoto Airport at 10:00, flight back at 12:30.

Go!

Flight Tracker, iPhone Suica usage, Visit Japan pre-entry application… I mentioned these in previous articles, so I won’t elaborate here.

This time was also quite impulsive; I bought the tickets and booked the hotel on 9/10, planned the itinerary on 9/15, and departed on 9/17!

Day 1: Departure

My flight was at 16:40, giving me plenty of time to wake up slowly and head out.

After arriving at Taoyuan Airport A1 station, I opted for online check-in, completing my check-in and baggage drop-off at Taipei Main Station. This way, I could head straight to immigration at the airport without having to squeeze through the check-in counters (for online check-in information, please refer to the official website).

I also placed an Airtag in my checked luggage to track its location, so I wouldn’t have to worry about losing it, and it made waiting at the baggage claim much easier.

I arrived at the airport around 13:00 and wandered around after clearing immigration.

I casually grabbed an overpriced yet ordinary dish of mouthwatering chicken and checked the status of my luggage; it had made it to the airport with me.

After eating, it was only around 14:30, so I quickly bought a Japanese language book for some last-minute studying.

Due to another flight mistakenly using the wrong runway, the entire airport had to reset; our plane circled for a long time before taking off, causing a delay of about 30 minutes. The in-flight entertainment screen was also quite small.

China Airlines collaborates with Wutong to create the cutest in-flight dessert, featuring Dinotaeng’s adorable short-tailed kangaroo, and the osmanthus oolong tea was quite tasty.

Due to the flight delay, we finally exited the airport around 21:00.

After leaving the airport, I saw a sign indicating the direction to my destination and where to wait for the bus; in addition to Hakata, there are other destinations available. You can refer to this article or the official website for more information; if you’re going far, make sure to check the schedule.

I originally planned to take the No. 2 train directly to Hakata Station, but it seems the last train was still an hour away (I forgot), so I switched to the No. 1 train to Fukuoka Airport Domestic Terminal (Fukuoka Airport Station), then took the subway to Hakata and transferred to the Nanakuma Line to Watanabe-dori Station.

Hello Fukuoka!

The hotel I was staying at is on the left side of the second photo.

A brief overview of the hotel: it feels a bit old, the lighting is dim, sound insulation is average, and the air conditioning is a bit noisy, but it’s still clean and tidy. However, I do regret not spending a little more to stay at the nearby APA chain hotel.

I originally planned to visit the yatai (street food stalls) on the first night, but I was too tired, so I just grabbed something quick from a convenience store and went to bed early to prepare for the next day’s itinerary.

Day 2: Nagasaki

In the morning, I looked out from my bed at the view of Fukuoka city.

Hakata Station

I took the subway to Hakata, then walked to Watanabe-dori to catch a bus to Hakata, which was faster.

After arriving in Hakata, I first went to the ticket counter to exchange my JR Pass (showing my passport) and reserved a seat for Nagasaki. There were many foreigners exchanging their JR Passes, and I waited for almost an hour, so I recommend heading out early or exchanging it in advance.

The JR Kyushu Pass can currently only be exchanged at the ticket counter, so be sure to queue up early. If there are too many people at Hakata Station, you might want to consider exchanging it at a nearby station for a quicker experience! Link

I bought a five-day pass, which starts counting from the day I exchanged it. I used this pass to enter and exit the stations (the one with the date and amount), while the reserved seat ticket is just for knowing where your seat is and cannot be used to enter or exit the station. Keep this pass safe, as you’ll need it for the next five days; if you lose it, it’s gone!

The journey from Hakata to Nagasaki has two segments: first to Takeo Onsen, then transferring at Takeo Onsen to go to Nagasaki. You change trains on the same platform, and they have the schedules well-timed, so basically, you just walk straight across to the other side after arriving.

While waiting for the train, I noticed that the trains in Kyushu have a lot of character!

The seats are spacious and comfortable, and the window view is great.

Travel time: approximately 1 hour and 50 minutes

A little side story: Completed a bit of national diplomacy ✅

I was seated next to a family on the train, and halfway through, one of the kids suddenly threw up. The dad, not having any tissues, had to use a newspaper, so I handed him some tissues and wet wipes.

When we were about to get off, the dad gave me a souvenir from Miyama City (shrimp rice crackers).

Nagasaki Station

The weather was great when I exited Nagasaki Station! I was worried it might rain today.

After exiting, I headed towards the Nagasaki tram.

Nagasaki (South)

My first stop was to head south to Nagasaki Shinchi Chinatown for a stroll.

It might be a unique spot for foreigners, but for Chinese people, it’s just okay. They sell Nagasaki specialties like kakuni buns, long plate udon, strong stick noodles, and soup dumplings… but I wasn’t very hungry at the time, so I just walked through and left.

I continued towards Glover Garden, passing by the Confucius Temple along the way XD.

I walked past Dutch Slope (which is just a slope) and took the escalator up to the No. 2 entrance of Glover Garden. The entire area is a hillside facing the sea.

At Glover Garden, I took a quick look around at the architectural styles and interior decorations; it reminded me a lot of Fort San Domingo in Tamsui (since both were established by the Dutch).

Don’t forget to exchange for a free photo here, which also offers a view of the cruise ships in Nagasaki Port.

On my way down, I passed by the Oura Catholic Church. I didn’t go inside, just took a photo and left.

I bought a Nagasaki kakuni bun to try, but I think the ones in Taiwan are better!

On my way back north towards the Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum, I stopped at the Megane Bridge to take some photos. The reflection in the water from the front view is really beautiful, and it’s worth a shot if you have the time.

Nagasaki (North)

Visiting the Atomic Bomb Museum was more about immersion and reflection. The venue is designed with many scenes (from the time of the explosion or immersive experiences), installation art, historical materials, and interviews; it allows visitors to immerse themselves in the historical atmosphere and reflect on the horrors of war.

After exiting the museum, just ahead is the atomic bomb explosion point, Peace Park.

Along the way (including the Atomic Bomb Museum), there are many colorful paper cranes hanging, symbolizing the prayer for peace.

Inasayama Night View

After leaving Peace Park, I stopped by a convenience store to rest a bit before heading out to see one of the three great night views of the world, the Inasayama night view.

I checked the bus schedule, and after a short walk from the convenience store, there was a bus stop to the base of Inasayama for the cable car (Yushinji Station), so I strolled to the station to wait for the bus.

However, I was caught off guard by a bus delay. This small station didn’t have an electronic display board, and Google Maps said the bus had left, but I didn’t see it; after waiting for over five minutes, I thought maybe it wasn’t running today, so I quickly checked for other nearby stops that went to Yushinji and walked another ten minutes to catch another bus.

The funny thing is that halfway there, I saw the delayed bus finally arrive… but it was too late Orz.

After getting off, right across was Yushinji Shrine. I walked up through a kindergarten, and then I reached the Nagasaki Cable Car (Yushinji Station). Since I didn’t plan to stay too late, I just bought a round-trip ticket (which was cheaper, but if you stay too late, the cable car stops running, and you’ll have to take the bus back).

It felt a bit like the ride from Wulai to Unzen Resort.

After getting off the cable car, there was another scenic cable car you could take, but I didn’t try it, so I just walked straight towards the observation deck.

I forgot to take a photo of the observation deck; it’s a 360-degree tower where you can see the entire Nagasaki city, port, and mountain views, and there’s no entrance fee. You can start watching the sunset from the west as the sun sets over the port and then enjoy the night view of the city from the east.

The observation deck is spacious, so you don’t have to worry about crowds.

After sunset, you can see the night view of the entire Nagasaki city and station, which is beautiful.

Finally, I took one last look at the night view of Nagasaki Station and bought some Nagasaki cakes as souvenirs (later I found out they were also sold in Hakata, with a shelf life of about 12 days, so I could have bought them later…), and prepared to head back to Hakata.

I encountered another delay, this time with JR (signal failure); it was delayed for almost an hour before I finally arrived in Hakata (exhausted), and the driver was speeding, making it feel quite bumpy.

I grabbed a late-night snack and headed back to the hotel to rest.

Day 3: Yanagawa and Dazaifu Day Trip + LalaPort Fukuoka

In the morning, I first went to the Fukuoka (Tenjin) Tourist Center to buy a day pass (you can purchase it at Fukuoka Tenjin, Yakuin, or online), and you can calculate if it’s cheaper that way.

KKday 【Kyushu Tickets】 Dazaifu and Yanagawa Tour Package (Pick up at Taoyuan Airport)

Nishitetsu — One-day tour of the ancient capital Dazaifu and the water town Yanagawa.

Additionally, you will receive two coupon books, one for Dazaifu that includes a voucher for a free umekawashi (plum rice cake).

There’s no fixed order, but the boat rides have a time limit, and they stop after 2 PM; so I followed the flow: Fukuoka -> Yanagawa -> Dazaifu -> Fukuoka.

After buying the tickets, I went to the manual window, showed the staff my ticket, and was able to enter the station directly to take the train to Yanagawa (no seat reservation needed).

Travel time: approximately 1 hour and 10 minutes

Yanagawa Boat Ride

After exiting the station, you’ll see staff in white vests (if not, there’s a service center nearby where you can ask) who will give you a map, return information, and a timetable, and guide you to the shuttle bus to the boat boarding area.

You’ll also go through a manual ticket check where the staff will tear your ticket from Fukuoka to Yanagawa.

I initially thought I could walk based on the route, but since there were staff members guiding us, I ended up taking the bus.

When I arrived at the boarding area and was waiting for the next boat, I happened to meet a family from Taiwan traveling together, so I joined them and chatted along the way (since I was traveling alone and didn’t speak Japanese XD, I hadn’t talked to anyone in Kyushu).

The water is very clean, and while it’s not as beautiful in this season with all the greenery, there are relatively fewer people.

The boatman will introduce the sights along the way and sing songs (most Taiwanese would have heard of them, many are old songs).

Here’s the translated text in naturalistic English, while keeping the original markdown image sources:

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When crossing the bridge, the boatman asks everyone to duck to avoid hitting their heads, which is quite amusing. There isn’t much shade along the way, so it can get a bit sunny.

Along the route, we pass by an ice shop that sells fruit ice, perfect for cooling off. The boatman also hands out ice packs to everyone to help beat the heat (very thoughtful).

I chatted with the father of a Taiwanese family who was traveling in a group, and I even got a business card from him.

After getting off the boat, I couldn’t find a seat on the free shuttle bus and ended up in the wrong line, getting turned away from another (non-Western Railway ticket) shuttle. I need to study the map for the boarding point (Chuanliu Boat Dock, at the end of the river) or just ask someone for quicker directions.

I ended up walking to catch a bus back to Nishitetsu Yanagawa Station.

Dazaifu

To get from Yanagawa to Dazaifu, you need to transfer at Nishitsuichi Station to catch the train to Dazaifu (you’ll need to go to another platform).

Travel time: about 1 hour

I took the Traveler train to Dazaifu, which goes through Nishitetsu (2.5 lines). It’s somewhat similar to the route from Beitou to Xinbeitou, with just one train going back and forth.

There’s a car in the train that displays artifacts from Dazaifu and allows you to write postcards, so it’s worth checking out.

Dazaifu Station is also beautiful, and the Lawson outside has a very Japanese vibe.

Just to the right after exiting the station is the world’s only five-pointed (Japanese certified) Ichiran Ramen.

After finishing the ramen, I had some ume mochi, which isn’t really related to plums; it’s more like red bean grilled rice cake. You have to eat the freshly made ones to enjoy their texture, and they’re delicious!

I forgot to use the exchange voucher that came with the Nishitetsu ticket, so I ended up buying one for 150 yen; I noticed it has a one-day shelf life, so I couldn’t take it back to Taiwan.

Continuing along Omotesando towards Dazaifu, you’ll pass one of the most beautiful Starbucks in Japan. The space is quite large, but it was crowded, so I didn’t stop and just moved on.

The bridge leading to the shrine would be great for photos at night when there are fewer people, but it was too crowded for spontaneous shots.

After visiting the shrine, I returned to Dazaifu Station to head back to Fukuoka Lalaport.

Fukuoka Lalaport

I took the train back to Nishitetsuichi and then transferred to a train heading towards Hakata. I got off at Ohashi (Fukuoka), exited to the left, and found the direct bus to Lalaport. It only took one stop to reach Fukuoka Lalaport.

Total travel time: about 50 minutes

As soon as I arrived, I saw the giant Fukuoka Gundam outside.

Lalaport is huge, great for shopping, and suitable for families; there’s even a large playground upstairs where kids were playing and some people were lying down to rest.

Upstairs, there’s a Jump Shop selling merchandise related to Shonen Jump, including Haikyuu, One Piece, Hunter x Hunter, Jujutsu Kaisen, Chainsaw Man, and more. I bought some Jujutsu merchandise.

You can get a tax refund for purchases over 5000 yen, but it seems like it’s refunded to their app or something, which is a bit complicated, and food isn’t included.

I went to the food court to have Miyazaki beef donburi, and on my way out, I bought some snacks for later (curry bread and Mizukawa mochi).

The illuminated Gundam at night is quite impressive.

For the return trip, take the direct bus, but don’t board at the original drop-off point; just follow the signs inside the building to the bus station.

I returned to the hotel to rest, using my tablet (the TV was too old and didn’t have smart features); the curry bread was crispy and delicious, with meat filling, and the mochi was decent, though I prefer the ones from Benzaiten.

Day 3: Mojiko, Kokura Castle, Canal City Hakata, Nakasu Yatai

I started the day by heading to Hakata Station to take the JR train to Mojiko, then back to Kokura Castle.

Hakata to Kokura Transport

A little mishap
I didn’t check Google Maps beforehand and ended up on the Shinkansen Nozomi 20, which isn’t covered by the JR Pass. When I tried to exit, I was stuck and had to buy a ticket for 2,160 yen with the help of a station staff member. However, it was indeed fast; this train took only 15 minutes to reach Mojiko.

Mojiko

I arrived at Mojiko without any issues (I was worried about getting fined).

As soon as you exit the station and walk forward, you reach Mojiko, which was completely empty on a weekday; I happened to catch the Blue Wing Mojiko Bridge being lowered.

After it was lowered, I walked back to the observation tower to get a bird’s eye view of the entire Mojiko.

After leaving the tower, I took a stroll around Mojiko.

For lunch, I had the famous curry buns from Mojiko.

Kokura Castle

Kokura is very close to Mojiko, but Kokura Station is small. After exiting, I found myself in a desolate area and ended up walking in circles looking for the entrance. The actual entrance is on the side of the mall outside Kokura.

Kokura Castle is small, but there are quite a few exhibits inside. The view from the top of the castle is pretty ordinary (the mall is right in front of it).

After visiting, I returned to the station to catch a train back to Hakata. I made sure to take the JR train this time, but since it was a small station, I only had local trains, which took over an hour to get back slowly.

Canal City Hakata

When I got back to Hakata, it was still early, so I decided to check out Canal City Hakata and wander around the city.

I hadn’t checked much beforehand and thought it would be some kind of “castle” or “moat,” but it turned out to be a shopping mall XD. There is indeed a “moat” with a water fountain show.

There are plenty of shops to explore here, including a Jump Shop.

With plenty of time to spare, I wandered around and went out to eat Hakata Gion Teppanyaki Gyoza.

The skin was crispy, and there was soup inside, making it very delicious. Since there was a language barrier, the staff were cute and used gestures to indicate that I should order two servings (one serving only has 8 pieces, and 16 pieces would be enough). I didn’t quite get it at the time, so I only ordered one serving plus the famous Hakata Mentai.

Nakasu Yatai

After eating, it was still light out, so I took a stroll through Nakasu Yatai.

Since it was still early, I headed to Tenjin’s department store (Parco) to wait for nightfall before returning to see the night view.

Upstairs, there’s an Animate store, and I hit the jackpot with a gacha capsule, getting Gojo Satoru on my first try.

The night view of Nakasu Yatai gives off a lively atmosphere.

There are flashy and eye-catching Japanese advertisement signs.

Nakasu Yatai consists of roadside food stalls, bustling with people; there’s ramen, oden, and grilled food, but nothing particularly caught my interest, so I didn’t go in to eat.

I returned to the hotel to drink and have some late-night snacks while resting.

Day 4: Sumiyoshi Shrine, Kushida Shrine, Tenjin Underground Shopping Street, Fukuoka Tower, Fukuoka SoftBank Hawks Baseball Game

I spent the day walking around Fukuoka, starting with a visit to the nearby Sumiyoshi Shrine after leaving the hotel.

Sumiyoshi Shrine

It’s small, and I wouldn’t go out of my way to visit if I weren’t nearby.

I passed by Canal City Hakata again on my way to Kushida Shrine.

On the way, I saw the cute little food stalls parked in the morning.

Kushida Shrine

Kushida Shrine is larger, and I drew a fortune stick, which said that job hunting “will suddenly succeed,” giving me hope for my work situation.

There’s a huge and spectacular float on display from the Hakata Gion Festival.

I continued strolling through Fukuoka and stopped for lunch at Hakata Miyachiku to try Miyazaki beef.

This serving of Miyazaki beef steak plus beer cost about 650 TWD, which is delicious and affordable! The Miyazaki beef was juicy and had no off-putting smell.

Tenjin Underground Shopping Street

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Feel free to let me know if you need any further assistance!

After lunch, I wandered around Tenjin and the underground shopping area, picking up some souvenirs like little chicken cookies and cake. I also stopped by the supermarket to try some popular muscat grapes.

While exploring Tenjin, I stumbled upon a wild Kumamon, the Kumamoto bear mascot.

After dropping off my souvenirs at the hotel and resting for a bit, I set off for Fukuoka Tower and a baseball game.

Fukuoka Tower

I took a bus from the city center to Fukuoka Tower.

KKday Japan・Kyushu｜Fukuoka Tower Admission Ticket

Fukuoka Tower has a completely mirrored design, and it looks beautiful from the outside. I think it’s even prettier than the Tokyo Skytree!

(Thanks to the kind passerby for taking my photo!)

However, since the tower is located on the outskirts of the city by the sea, the view from the top is just okay; I’m not sure how the night view will be.

After leaving Fukuoka Tower, I strolled slowly to my next stop, the Fukuoka PayPay Dome, which had a nice seaside atmosphere.

Fukuoka SoftBank Hawks Baseball Game

There were a lot of people (about 70% full), but there were still tickets available for purchase at the venue.

A Little Ticket Buying Incident

When I was buying my ticket, I encountered an elderly man at the counter who seemed nervous and shaky when he saw a foreigner. I felt nervous too! XD In a moment of confusion, I chose a designated seat in the last row, right in the middle of the front section (with people on both sides). It turned out to be super awkward to get in and out, having to say “sumimasen” all the way, and the seats were quite small. I was squeezed in among the Japanese fans, and since I don’t speak any Japanese, it was really uncomfortable… I sat stiffly through the entire game.

The ticket cost nearly 1,500 TWD, and I thought I should have just bought the cheapest, worst seat to enjoy the game more comfortably.

I have to say, the visual effects in the dome (being so close to the field) and the large screen animations were impressive.

The Fukuoka SoftBank Hawks have a unique cheer tradition where, in the seventh inning, everyone inflates balloons (using a manual pump) and releases them. As for the trash… well, they just leave it for someone else to clean up later.

In the end, the home team won 4-2, and it was more exciting than the CPBL games. The pitchers were throwing at speeds around 145 km/h, with action in every inning, and it was rare to see three outs in a row. The pace of the game was quick, making it enjoyable to watch.

However, I have to say that the cheerleading aspect in Taiwan is still richer than in Japan.

When the home team wins, they set off fireworks inside the dome, which is really cool!!

I bought a SoftBank Hawks towel as a souvenir from my visit, which also helped me resolve the issue of not being able to enter the Hanshin Tigers’ Koshien Stadium last time.

There were a lot of people leaving the stadium, but everyone kept a respectful distance and walked slowly. I followed the crowd to the nearest subway station, Chinatown Station, since it felt like the bus line would take a long time.

Back at the hotel, I rested and tried the muscat grapes I bought in the afternoon. They were very sweet, almost too sweet.

Day 5: Kumamoto (Kumamoto Castle, Tsuruya Department Store)

I checked out early and took a stroll around the pharmacy near the hotel.

I didn’t find much, so I grabbed a McDonald’s meal (a McMuffin with egg and an iced Americano for just $107) before heading back to pick up my luggage and catch the JR train to Kumamoto.

Finally, I said goodbye to this hotel. The lobby had SoftBank Hawks dolls, and there was a Taiwanese flag hanging outside, which was pretty impressive since the neighboring store was a Chinese-run convenience store with many Chinese customers.

Fukuoka Hakata -> Kumamoto

I used the electronic ticket machine at the station to reserve a seat, thinking it would be a bit far and carrying luggage, so it was better to have a seat.

Following the instructions, it went like this:

1. Select the language (you have to do this first; otherwise, you can’t change it after inserting the ticket card).
2. Insert the JR Pass ticket.
3. Select the departure and arrival stations (search using the English station names).
4. Choose the train and seat.
5. Done.

If you have any questions, there are staff on-site to help. I initially wanted to take a train that was leaving in 15 minutes, but it was fully booked, so I had to buy a ticket for a train leaving 45 minutes later.

It turned out to be a good thing I didn’t get that earlier train. Walking from Hakata Station to the Shinkansen platform for the train to Nagasaki (via Kumamoto) took about 10 minutes, and it was a bit of a detour, which made me feel rushed.

I was determined to use my JR Pass on its last day.

I was initially worried that my 27-inch suitcase (about 69 x 50 x 29 cm) wouldn’t fit in the overhead compartment and that I would have to buy a large luggage seat, which requires a purchase if the total dimensions exceed 160 cm.

A 27-inch suitcase can be a bit cramped, and it might bump into the person next to you. In practice, it fit quite securely in the overhead compartment, but I still had to lift it up there. I was worried about blocking the aisle when I was getting my luggage, but luckily, a kind Japanese man offered to let me take his seat to put my luggage away.

Upon arriving in Kumamoto, I was greeted by a giant Kumamon. I first took the JR and subway to the hotel to drop off my luggage (at the Civic Sports Center Station).

Kumamoto is filled with Kumamon everywhere…

2024–11–16 Update: ⚠️⚠️

Public transportation in Kumamoto Prefecture: Kyushu Sanko Bus, Sanko Bus, Kumamoto Bus, Kumamoto City Bus, and Kumamoto Electric Railway no longer accepts Suica, PASMO, ICOCA, and other IC cards for fare payment, and currently, only cash is accepted. Credit card payments may be introduced in the future, so please be aware. ⚠️⚠️⚠️

⚠️⚠️⚠️⚠️

Kumamoto Castle

After dropping off my luggage at the hotel, I took the tram to Kumamoto Castle (to the Tsumachi Station).

You can first visit the Sakura no Baba Josaien (I forgot to take a photo) to recharge and buy tickets for Kumamoto Castle. There weren’t many people there, but when I went to the entrance of Kumamoto Castle, I encountered a large group, which made it crowded.

The ticket prices are: Kumamoto Castle 800 yen, Kumamoto Castle + the building behind it (Historical and Cultural Experience Yuyuyaku) 850 yen, Kumamoto Castle + the building behind it (Historical and Cultural Experience Yuyuyaku) + Kumamoto Museum 1,100 yen.

I bought the Kumamoto Castle + Yuyuyaku ticket, thinking it was only an extra 50 yen, but after walking around, I found it to be just okay. I did get to see some exhibitions related to the castle and earthquake artifacts, which were good for photos and experiences.

The restoration of Kumamoto Castle’s main keep was completed in 2023, and other buildings are still under repair (you can see cranes).

The new design includes a skywalk that leads directly to Kumamoto Castle.

After reaching the main keep, you can see the skywalk you walked along.

You can get a bird’s-eye view of the plaza in front of Kumamoto Castle and the historical buildings that are still under repair behind it.

A model showing the condition after the earthquake.

Next to the plaza, I found a souvenir shop selling Kumamoto Castle models, completing my mission to collect models of the three great castles!

I returned to the ticket area and visited Yuyuyaku; inside, there were models of Kumamoto Castle and a LEGO version of it, which was really cool.

Since the weather wasn’t great, I didn’t continue to the museum or Kato Shrine.

I walked back to Tsumachi Station, where the Amu Plaza shopping area and Kumamoto’s Tsuruya Department Store are located. The east wing of the department store recently underwent a complete renovation and features the Kumamon Plaza (Kumamon’s office).

While wandering through the shopping district, I happened to come across a public event featuring Kumamon and traffic safety, where I received a Kumamon tote bag.

This area isn’t particularly interesting to explore; it’s quite boring. Only the Tsutaya bookstore and the MUJI building are worth visiting. Upon arriving in Kumamoto, I immediately noticed that there were many elderly people and very few young people. The local Tsuruya Department Store mostly caters to older customers, selling women’s clothing and home goods, with very few items for younger people.

I bought some Kumamon merchandise at the Kumamon-themed store in Tsuruya Department Store, which had more styles than the Kumamon Plaza. Then I went to the basement shopping area to buy some food and drinks (for dinner and a late-night snack) to take back to the hotel.

The recommended local sake, Kōro, is sweet and goes down smoothly, but I felt it lacked a strong rice flavor. Green Rich Hotel - Suizenji (Green Rich Hotel Suizenji) 2023/09

It’s worth mentioning that I usually don’t pay much attention to hotel reviews; I just look for places with around three stars or more. However, this hotel had poor sound insulation and happened to be filled with elementary school students on a graduation trip, so for two consecutive days, the doors kept slamming open and shut, making a lot of noise.

After checking Google/Agoda for reviews, I felt a sense of empathy.

Poor sound insulation seems to be a common issue with older hotels, which I can tolerate (I brought earplugs). However, the hotel’s WiFi, as previous reviewers noted, was just a sham.

The WiFi had a signal throughout the hotel, but even with full bars in my room, the speed was extremely slow, and I couldn’t even load a webpage. I had to sit right by the door to get a decent speed, which made it feel like the hotel had no internet at all.

The price wasn’t great either; I could have stayed in Fukuoka for the same price and booked a direct APA hotel.

After this experience, I realized that even in Japan, it’s essential to check hotel reviews…

Honestly, aside from being conveniently located near the airport, it had no advantages, and there were no convenience stores nearby (I had to walk over 10 minutes to find one).

Day 6: Suizenji Jojuen, Kumamon Plaza Performance, Hanabata Square, Sakura Town Shopping Center

I woke up in the morning and headed straight to Suizenji Jojuen Garden across the street.

[_KKday Reference Itinerary: One Day Tour in Kumamoto, Kyushu

Aso Nakadake Volcano, Kusasenrigahama, Kumamoto Castle, Suizenji Jojuen Garden / All-You-Can-Eat Seasonal Fruits

Departing from Fukuoka Hakata (Bilingual: Chinese, English, Japanese)_](https://www.kkday.com/zh-tw/product/38965?cid=19365&ud1=d78e0b15a08a){:target=”_blank”}

Suizenji Jojuen Garden (Suizen Shrine)

The garden has a bit of a Lin Family Garden vibe, with everything well-organized and the water crystal clear. There’s a small Mount Fuji, Suizen Shrine, and some very plump koi fish, along with cats.

Kumamon Square Performance

After exploring, I took the tram to Suido-machi to head to Kumamon Square (which I visited yesterday).

Inside, there are photo opportunities with Kumamon merchandise, and outside there’s a monitor to see what’s happening inside.

Since it was still early before the performance at 11 AM, I decided to grab a bite at the nearby Tsuruya Department Store.

You can check the performance schedule on the Kumamon official website (the times can vary, but there are usually three shows on Saturdays).

While passing by Tsuruya Department Store, I spotted a somewhat sad-looking manager playing the piano.

I went to the basement level to try the famous honey-filled manju, which is a thick-filled wheel cake available in white bean and red bean varieties. Those who love sweets will definitely enjoy it, especially paired with coffee for breakfast.

Around 11 AM, I returned to Kumamon Square to wait for the performance. There’s no need for a lottery now; as long as you enter before the show starts, you’re good. If you arrive late, you’ll have to watch from outside on the monitor. If you have kids, you can sit inside.

Before the performance, they explain the rules, such as: no hitting Kumamon, no taking photos above head height (to avoid blocking others), and if someone’s face appears in a photo, it must be blurred according to Japanese law. They encourage everyone to share on social media.

The performance lasts about 30 minutes, with a host speaking for Kumamon (in Japanese). The flow includes greetings, sharing fun facts about Kumamoto, dancing (to the catchy song above), and saying hi to people from different countries (there were a lot of Taiwanese in this show XD).

Kumamon is super cute, with big movements and a lot of fun.

The merchandise sold in the square is limited and a bit pricey, so I didn’t buy anything there.

After the performance, it was close to noon, so I walked down the shopping street to eat at Katsuretsutei Shinchiku Honten; as I walked outside the shopping street, I suddenly found myself in a more adult-oriented area, with a row of free information centers (the other side, Kumamoto Ginza Street, is similar).

I ordered a super thick juicy pork cutlet rice bowl, which came with their special pickled cabbage (shared, self-serve, remember to use the red chopsticks). Everything else was the same as eating Japanese pork cutlet in Taiwan, with a grinding stick and sesame for making the sauce; rice, tea, soup, and cabbage were all free refills. I ended up eating two bowls of rice, feeling very satisfied.

Hanabatake Square

After filling up, I continued walking down the shopping street towards Hanabatake Square.

I happened to catch an event at the square on Saturday, the Food Summit 2003, with food stalls all around and a stage set up for performances.

I bought a cup of sparkling wine and a grilled sausage and sat down to watch the show. The sausage wasn’t as fragrant and tasty as those in Taiwan.

Halfway through eating, something fell from the stage, which was a bit startling, but it added to the atmosphere; however, it got too hot, so I left after finishing my food and headed to the nearby Sakuramachi Shopping Center to browse the department store.

Hanabatake Square seems to have events every weekend, so it’s worth checking before you come; next week is the Taiwan Festival!

Sakuramachi Shopping Center

On the top floor, there’s a Kumamon waving, and the second floor has a wide selection of Kumamon merchandise ( I think it’s the most complete collection ).

There will also be Kumamon performances here, so check the announcement for the schedule.

You can take the stairs from the outside to the top floor to find the waving Kumamon. This building also houses the Kumamoto Bus Center, where you can buy tickets to other cities on the second floor.

On the rooftop, there’s a large garden and a water play area, perfect for kids to enjoy.

You can also take the escalator from inside; from the third floor’s Nisshin-ya (which was completely empty), you can find the escalator leading up.

Personally, I think Sakuramachi Shopping Center is newer and more enjoyable than Tsuruya Department Store.

Next to the Sakuramachi Shopping Center is the Kumamoto Prefectural Products Hall, which not only has local specialties but also some Kumamon merchandise (like Kumamon incense burners XD).

On the way back, I walked through the shopping street again.

I bought some clothes and miscellaneous items at Muji, and restocked on cosmetics at Matsumoto Kiyoshi (for some reason, my Visa card wouldn’t work at Matsumoto Kiyoshi; it didn’t work in Tokyo either, so I had to rely on cash this time).

By the time I got back to the hotel, it was almost evening. I grabbed a quick dinner from Lawson and went to bed early to prepare for tomorrow’s trip to Aso Volcano!

Day 7: Aso Volcano, Kusasenrigahama, Aso Shrine, Kumamoto Station AMU PLAZA KUMAMOTO

[_KKday Reference Itinerary: [One Person Tour, Daily Departures] One Day Tour in Kumamoto

Kumamoto Castle & Aso Volcano Crater & Kusasenrigahama (Includes All-You-Can-Eat Healthy Buffet)

Departing from Fukuoka_](https://www.kkday.com/zh-tw/product/21811-kumamoto-tour-josaien-mount-aso-kumamoto-castle-hot-spring-japan?cid=19365&ud1=d78e0b15a08a){:target=”_blank”}

In the morning, I left the hotel and walked to the bus station to catch the express bus to Aso Station; while waiting for the bus, I encountered Kumamon again.

The bus will first pass by Aso Airport (I’ll be coming here the day after tomorrow, Orz).

On the way, there’s a special introduction to Aso Volcano, and they play local mountain songs to help you imagine walking through the grasslands of Aso Volcano.

Upon arriving at Aso Station, there’s a statue of Usopp from One Piece outside the station for photo opportunities (I forgot to take a picture).

You can buy a one-day pass for Aso Volcano from the vending machine here (which is a few hundred yen cheaper) and get the schedule. The one-day pass is only valid for the three stops listed on the schedule, and you need to take a numbered ticket to board; it seems you can’t use it at other stops.

I took route 8, with the bus leaving at 10:45 AM.

Travel time to the top: about 40 minutes.

There weren’t many people, and as the time approached, I lined up a bit and got on the bus. Everyone seemed to be boarding; however, due to safety considerations on the mountain roads, there are no standing spots; if you’re prone to motion sickness, it’s advisable to take motion sickness medication.

Aso also offers helicopter tours to see the volcano, so if you’re interested, you can look it up.

Aso Volcano

Kami-komezuka

As we drove up the mountain, we first passed Kusasenrigahama before reaching the top station. From the top station, you need to transfer to another bus for about 10 minutes to reach the volcano crater.

I happened to meet a fellow traveler from TSMC who was also traveling alone (he was here on business XD) and it was both our first time in Aso, so we decided to team up for the itinerary.

At the top station, we decided not to wait for the bus and opted to walk up the mountain (which takes about 15-20 minutes).

Walking to the mountain plaza, you’ll arrive at the fourth crater of Aso Nakadake.

Having a travel companion for photos is definitely a plus!

It was cool up there, not hot at all, and filled with the smell of sulfur. If you have respiratory issues, you should consider your health condition.

I just took a quick look around and didn’t venture to the Aso Nakadake crater; I just came up to see and then headed back down.

A Little Incident

While chatting happily on the way down, I didn’t pay attention to the bus direction, and as it was about to leave, I hurriedly got on, only to be taken back up again. So I had to walk down once more XD.

At the top station, I made sure to check the bus for route 8, route 8, route 8, heading down to Aso Station; I got off at Kusasenrigahama.

Kusasenrigahama

I had the famous おか牛丼 (beef bowl), which was popular and had plenty of seating, and the food came out quickly, almost no waiting.

After eating, I strolled around Kusasenrigahama (it had a bit of a Qingtiangang vibe) and saw horse riding experiences available.

After finishing, I took the same route 8 bus back to Aso Station, retracing my steps down the mountain.

Aso Shrine

When I arrived at Aso Station, the JR train to Aso Shrine (Miyaji Station) was about to leave in three minutes, and if I missed it, I’d have to wait another hour. I ran to the station and encountered Aso is a small station without electronic payment, so I had to buy a ticket, scrambling to buy it from the vending machine before boarding.

Aso Station has only one platform, so you can just get on without thinking; later I found out that if you really don’t have time to buy a ticket, you can board directly and pay when you exit.

After getting off at Miyaji Station, it’s about a 20-minute walk to Aso Shrine (just go straight, but it’s a bit far).

On the way, I encountered a wild Kumamon.

The shrine isn’t very large, and we finished our visit quickly; part of the shrine is also under renovation.

After leaving, there’s a small shopping street next to the shrine where you can buy some snacks and take a short break.

Thanks to my brother for treating me to fried beef and potato cakes.

After exploring, we started to walk back slowly. I initially planned to take the 15:47 JR train back to Kumamoto, but when we got to Miyaji Station, I realized that train only had reserved seating available, and all the tickets were sold out, so we couldn’t board.

Here’s the timetable; please check the schedule in advance; otherwise, you might end up like us, waiting for an hour for the next train at 16:35 back to Kumamoto.

Since we had some time to spare, we decided to walk back and check out Matsumoto Kiyoshi along the way. (It’s actually quite a distance, about a 10-minute walk.)

Finally, we took one last look at the tranquil Aso.

The local train slowly made its way back to Kumamoto, taking about 1 hour and 45 minutes to arrive.

There’s a section of the route that zigzags and goes in reverse, but don’t worry, you’re not on the wrong train!

Kumamoto Station AMU PLAZA KUMAMOTO

Back at Kumamoto Station, I said goodbye to my brother, hoping to meet again someday.

I explored the newly opened AMU PLAZA KUMAMOTO department store (which is larger and more diverse than the Sakuramachi Shopping Center) and the nearby Higo Market (which sells food).

I also discovered many Kumamon souvenirs! XD

I casually had dinner at the food court, trying Miyazaki chicken (it was average), and after exploring the entire building, I bought some late-night snacks and Kumamoto strawberry wine (which was nice after tasting, so I decided to bring it back to Taiwan) before heading back to the hotel.

There was a rather unique store called “BIWAN 美灣” selling Taiwanese products (I even saw some snacks), and I found out it was opened by Taiwan’s Ayu Soap.

https://kumataiwanlife.com/

While researching, I also found a cool website — https://kumataiwanlife.com/ that has the latest news, events, and fun facts about Kumamoto in Chinese (for example: Kumamoto’s “band-aid” is called “LIBATAPE”).

Today, I discovered that the hotel vending machine sells canned draft cola, which I couldn’t find in any of the three major convenience stores.

It’s a collaboration between Suntory and Pepsi, and you can’t buy it in Taiwan. It’s made using the same method as draft beer, resulting in a strong carbonation without the syrupy sweetness. I usually end up throwing away regular cola because it gets too sweet, but I could finish the draft cola!

After a satisfying meal, I went to bed early, preparing for the last day in Kumamoto (excluding the day of my return flight).

Day 9: Wandering and Shopping in Kumamoto

By the third day in Kumamoto, I found it a bit boring since I had already visited all the attractions. I could only try to find some places to explore and buy souvenirs and cosmetics.

I originally planned to go to Shimabara City, but the journey was too long (about 2 hours and 45 minutes one way), and since my JR Pass had already expired, I would have to buy a long-distance ticket, so I gave up. Oita and Yufuin were also too far, so I passed on those as well. I decided to just wander around the city and shop at a leisurely pace.

Kumamoto Inahoe Shrine

In the morning, I headed to Tōmachi Street to visit Kumamoto Inahoe Shrine, which I hadn’t gone to on the first day.

Kato Shrine

I then walked towards Kato Shrine (it’s quite a distance, about a 20-minute walk, and there are some uphill paths).

You can see the uphill path leading to Kato Shrine. You can also see the area that was under renovation from the castle tower on the first day, along with many scattered castle walls that need to be restored one by one.

It’s small, and half of it is still under renovation.

There was a small donation box for the Kumamoto earthquake, so I didn’t visit the shrine but instead donated.

From here, you can see Kumamoto Castle from the back.

After returning the same way, I headed to Kumamoto City Hall (there’s a free observation deck on the 14th floor). The walk to Kato Shrine was quite far, so you might want to take a bus.

I originally planned to visit the Kumamoto Art Museum and the Crafts Museum, but they are all closed on Mondays!

Kumamoto City Hall

The 14th floor of Kumamoto City Hall offers a panoramic view of the entire city and Kumamoto Castle.

After leaving the city hall, I walked towards the Sakuramachi Shopping Center and passed over a pedestrian bridge, which is a great spot for photos, capturing the Kumamoto streetcar.

This intersection is Kumamoto’s Ginza Street, where I mentioned earlier that there are many free information centers.

Sakuramachi Shopping Center

I returned to the Sakuramachi Shopping Center to shop and had Miyazaki beef paired with Kumamoto beer; before leaving, I bought a Kumamon daifuku to take back to Taiwan as a souvenir (it’s so cute!).

Don Quijote

I walked from Shimo-dori to Kami-dori and back to Tōmachi Street, stopping by Don Quijote to shop (the tax refund counter is on the second floor).

After shopping, I thought I’d head back to the hotel to rest and drop off my things.

A Little Anecdote
On the streetcar, I encountered a cute elderly couple from Kumamoto; they pointed at the transparent bag of duty-free items containing Nissin instant noodles and said, “Sukoi ne~,” to which I replied, “Good! Good!” Then I took out the Kumamon daifuku I had just bought and said to the grandma, “Kawaii ne~,” and she gave me a thumbs up, saying, “Kawaii, arigatou.” I then said, “Watashi wa Taiwanjin desu,” and the grandma seemed to greet me back (my Japanese is too poor to understand, but I caught something about being energetic). I responded politely, and when I got off, I waved goodbye to the couple.

After returning to the hotel, I opened the curtains for the first time, and right outside was the Suizenji River area; the view was actually quite nice, and I could hear the sounds of insects at night.

After resting for a bit, I didn’t have many places to go in the afternoon, so I just picked a spot on the map to wander around.

Luffy Statue

I first walked to the Kumamoto Prefectural Office to find the Luffy statue.

Kenkun Shrine

Then I took a bus and walked to Kenkun Shrine; it’s a small shrine, and when I went, it was almost closing time, so there were hardly any people.

There’s no direct bus here, so you have to walk a bit (about 15 minutes); after leaving the shrine, I continued walking towards the Kumamoto Zoo (about a 20–30 minute walk) to find the Chopper statue.

Chopper Statue

On the way, I saw a Sergeant Major manhole cover (it seems to be from a previous event).

I found the Chopper statue at the entrance of the zoo.

I had previously checked and found that Kumamoto Zoo seemed quite boring, so I didn’t plan to go in; by the evening, it was already closed.

A Little Anecdote
At the zoo entrance, I met a Taiwanese family who wanted to take a photo, so I helped them out; the next day at the airport, I ran into them again and took another photo with them in front of the plane. The younger brother called me the “photo brother” XD.

Looking at the map, I continued walking towards the Ezu Lake Park in the Suizenji River area, which was on the way; I discovered it was just a riverside park for locals to exercise, so I took the bus back to the hotel (it was still the bus that started from there).

Aiyoshi Ramen

In the evening, I went to an izakaya near Shin Suizenji Station for dinner.

I had dinner with my former colleague (from a digital technology company, who later appeared on the cover of Line News, aka the goddess of Books.com, Irene Yu).

It was so touching to be able to have dinner with someone familiar in a foreign place, especially since I had been quite isolated for several days (not understanding Japanese and hardly speaking). In the end, I even received some souvenirs from Beppu. 😭

I ate too quickly and only remember that the chicken wings were delicious, and I tried the horse meat skewers (Kumamoto is famous for horse meat sashimi, but I didn’t dare to try it); the owner was very friendly, but the menu was all in Japanese, and the characters were hard to decipher with translation software, so I could only guess. XD

After dinner, I walked back to the hotel (about a 15-minute walk), taking a final stroll through the streets of Kumamoto. I stopped by Lawson and FamilyMart to buy ice cream and amazake (I initially thought it was sake, but amazake is not alcohol; it’s a nourishing summer drink).

I also picked up breakfast for the next morning (melon bread and juice). FamilyMart’s fruit juice (melon, strawberry, etc.) is really delicious; I almost bought it every time I saw it because it has sweet fruit pieces in it.

Day 10: Return Trip

After wandering alone in Japan for 10 days, I started to miss home and crave Taiwanese food and my friends back in Taiwan.

The only advantage of this hotel is that there’s an airport shuttle right across the street.

I encountered some actual delays again, and Google Maps showed that the bus had already passed; thankfully, I had learned from my experience in Nagasaki and kept an eye on the electronic signboards. I continued to wait patiently, and after about 10 minutes of delay, the bus finally arrived.

The driver helped put my suitcase in the luggage compartment below the bus, and I just needed to remember to take it when I got off.

On the way, I encountered a wild Kumamon fence XD; Kumamon is really everywhere in Kumamoto!

I arrived at the airport early, around 9 AM (since I didn’t have anywhere else I wanted to go, arriving late would just mean staying at the hotel longer).

Kumamoto Airport (KMJ) is very new and small, with not many flights; there were only three international flights today, and there are only three counters for international flights, which are all used interchangeably.

Here’s the translated text in naturalistic English, while keeping the original markdown image sources:

---

Check-in and baggage drop opened around 10:20. Before that, I was flying with EVA Air (which allows two carry-on items), but I discovered that with China Airlines, I could only bring one. I quickly compressed my belongings into one bag.

The ground staff advised not to leave immediately after checking in my luggage. They suggested waiting for about 5 to 10 minutes on-site, as they would call out numbers if there were any issues with the baggage (the airport is quite small, and there are no electronic boards, so you just have to wait).

Once everything was fine, I headed towards the international departure area. I initially thought I would have time to explore the airport, but there wasn’t much to see.

At that moment, I might have been really tired. Later, I found out there’s actually a viewing platform to watch the planes. After checking in my luggage, I could have taken my time to explore instead of rushing to the departure area.

Note that all the food options on the 3rd floor are located “after security check” before departure. You can turn left to find the dining area, but you’ll need to go through security again when you return. Once you complete the departure process, there are no food options left, just duty-free shops.

There were hardly any people at the departure check, and I had the security check all to myself.

Since I wasn’t very hungry, I skipped the dining options and went straight to the international departure lounge.

The lounge and duty-free shop weren’t very large, but they were new and had USB charging outlets. You can see the viewing platform from here (those people on the 2nd floor).

I didn’t buy much, just spent the remaining balance on my Apple Watch’s Suica card and picked up two bottles of peach water to enjoy back in Taiwan.

The flight took off right on time at 12:30. Bye, Kyushu! Bye, Kumamoto!

The return flight was on a newer plane, and they were showing the Super Mario Bros. movie, which I finished just in time to land in Taiwan. The seats weren’t full, so I enjoyed having an entire row to myself!

When I got off the plane, I noticed the person in front of me was wearing a helmet. Did they ride a motorcycle to the airport? 🤣

Arriving at Taoyuan Airport, it was time to go home!

While waiting for my luggage, I realized I might have checked it in too early; it took a little while to arrive. I also tested the Airtag’s tracking feature, and it alerted me when my luggage was nearby!

Back in Taiwan, I spotted Kumamon again on the way home (it seems to be part of a new card promotion from Yuanta Bank).

Quick Tips on Riding Buses and Trams in Japan

• Take a numbered ticket (with a number on it) = At the entrance of the bus, there’s a small machine to pull a ticket (similar to a number-drawing machine).
• Some routes have a flat fare, so you might not need a ticket.
• If you use electronic payment (like Suica), you can skip the ticket, but be careful not to let your balance go negative ( unlike in Taiwan).
• Buses and trams do not give change, but you can exchange money at the change machine on the bus (located near where you pay the driver).
• Generally, you board from the back and exit from the front.
• Japanese buses wait for passengers to sit down before departing and wait for passengers to get off before moving; so you can stand up only when the bus arrives at your stop ( unlike in Taiwan).
• When getting off, check your ticket number against the fare to pay:

Don’t be afraid to ride buses in Japan! Complete guide to bus riding rules

That wraps up my entire experience of a 10-day solo trip in Kyushu. The summary/retro has already been written at the beginning. Thank you for reading!

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If you found this article helpful, feel free to use my referral link to purchase KKday products and tours. I will earn a small commission, which helps me continue creating more travel content. Thank you!

[2024 Update] Second Visit to Kyushu

• June 2024 Second Visit to Kyushu (9 days + 2 days in Korea) Entering Japan from Busan, Korea via the Shinsan Camellia Cruise, visiting Yufuin, Oita, Fukuoka, Shimonoseki, Kizaki, and Sasebo

More Travelogues

• [Travelogue] 2024 San’in Region (Part 1) Shimane, Izumo, Matsue, Tottori, Himeji, Osaka, Kobe 7-Day Solo Trip
• [Travelogue] 2024 Second Visit to Kyushu 9-Day Free Trip, Entering Fukuoka via Busan → Hakata Cruise
• [Travelogue] 2023 Hiroshima and Okayama 6-Day Free Trip
• [Travelogue] 9/11 Nagoya Day Trip
• [Travelogue] 2023 Tokyo 5-Day Free Trip
• [Travelogue] 2023 Kansai Region 8-Day Free Trip

If you have any questions or suggestions, feel free to contact me.

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